Tag Archives: Walking Tour

Friday, June 28, 2019 ~ London in a Day Walking Tour of the City of London to Westminster, then exploring Covent Garden/Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus

On my first day visiting a new city, I usually like to take some kind of tour to get an overview of where the main attractions are located and learn about of history about that city.  Since we arrived in London mid-day yesterday, I hadn’t planned any tours in case of unexpected delays.  As it turned out, we actually covered quite a lot of ground in the two-thirds of a day that we spent in London yesterday, but the original plan was to treat today as our first full day and therefore I wanted to book an overview tour.  I did a few searches online and as soon as I found the Strawberry Tours website, I knew my search was complete.  Strawberry Tours offers a free 6-hour walking tour covering pretty much all the main sites on the north side of the river.  I have seen free walking tours that last one, two, and even three hours, but SIX hours?!?  In my experience, that is completely unheard of!!  The website warned that we would cover around 10km (over 6 miles) in about 7 hours with a 1 hour lunch break in the middle.  That sounded a bit daunting, but when you broke it down it only came out to one mile per hour, so it wasn’t really all that much.  Here is the tour description from the Strawberry Tours website:

“If your stay in London is shorter than you’d like it to be, but you want to leave with the feeling that you have seen the most important sites of this magnificent old town, then our Free London in a Day Tour is definitely the tour for you.

We’ll get going at 9.30 in the morning from Tower Hill, and we’ll spend all morning exploring the City of London, the root of it all, Londinium, the place where the Romans settled two thousand years ago. It is here where trade, economic power, and the middle classes have thrived since the times of William the Conqueror nearly a thousand years ago. Walk through the oldest streets of London as you gaze up to some of its most modern buildings. Be amazed by St. Paul’s Cathedral, and hear about the man who built it and rebuilt all of London after the Great Fire of 1666. Learn about some of the most powerful corporations in history, such as The East India Company, in the place were capitalism was born.

At around 13.00 will stop for an optional traditional Pub Lunch, where you can chat further to the guide, and enjoy a fish and chips with a pint of good old ale.

After lunch will venture into the City of Westminster, the place where political power has been held for the last 700 years, and certainly the most eccentric and picturesque area in town. See Buckingham Palace, where the Queen resides, and St. James’ Palace, built by Henry the VIII for his second wife Anne Bolene. Hear all the Royal gossip and learn about the history of the most popular Royal Family in the world. Walk to the houses of Parliament and see where the real power is held as you take your picture in front of the Big Ben.”

They also offer just tours of just the City of London separately from Westminster, so we could pick one or the other and not commit a full day to this tour, but this just seemed like too good a deal to be true and we couldn’t resist the chance to see all of these things in one tour.  It was a bit of a gamble because if we had a bad tour guide, that would totally ruin the day, but we took our chances and signed up on their website.

On Friday morning, we woke up and got ready for the day, then went downstairs to the basement of the hotel for breakfast.  When we checked in yesterday, they asked us to pick what time we wanted to eat breakfast.  They had a few little cards with half-hour time slots from 7am until 9am, so we picked 8am for Friday morning.  Each day, we could pick up a different time card for tomorrow’s breakfast or we could just reuse the one from the day before if we wanted to go at the same time.  The breakfast room was very small with only 5 or 6 tables, so it made sense that they needed to regulate the flow of traffic so there would be enough seats for everyone and so the kitchen staff could keep up with the food orders.  We arrived at 7:52am, which turned out to be very lucky because the kitchen had already finished cooking breakfast for the people who arrived at 7:30am and we were the first to arrive and place our order for the next round.  They actually did run out of tables because some of the 7:30 people hadn’t left yet when all of the 8am people arrived, so it was good that we were a few minutes early and we learned to use that strategy every day! 

I knew that breakfast was included with the nightly price of our hotel, but all of the reviews indicated that we would get a typical English breakfast with bacon, eggs, beans, and a grilled tomato.  I did not anticipate having any options, so I was shocked when we arrived and had a full menu to choose from!

Sure, it wasn’t IHOP, but it was way more than I was expecting and we were thrilled!  I ordered the special sandwich with a side of scrambled eggs, and DH ordered fried eggs over medium.  While our food was cooking, we helped ourselves to the buffet of cold options.  I took a few slices of cheese to put on top of my eggs, and a single-serve container of nutella for my toast.  The food came out very quickly and everything was good.  It was a simple breakfast, but it was very filling and it was hard to complain when it was free and made to order!

After breakfast, we walked across the street to Kings Cross to take the Tube to the Tower Hill station. 

Our instructions said to meet near the Tower Hill Tram coffee stand right outside of the station at 9:30am.  I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to find this stand, but it was literally right there in front of us when we exited the station!  A few minutes after we got there, our guide showed up carrying a bright red umbrella with white dots on it, designed to look like a strawberry!   Our guide’s name was Carlton and he was energetic, theatrical, and entertaining all day long so we really lucked out with him as our guide.  There were only 14 of us taking the tour today, which was the perfect size for our group because it was big enough to have people asking questions and we could chat with them as we walked between the sites, but not so big that it was hard to keep track of everyone all day long.  Crazy enough, there was a family who lives in a town near us in California! 

We started the tour next to a section of the original stone wall that the Romans built around 200 AD to surround and protect London.  Pieces of this wall can be seen in various spots around the City of London, including right outside the exit to the Tower Hill Underground station! 

As we turned around to leave this area, we got a sneak peak at our next destination:  The Tower of London!

Carlton led us around the back of the Underground station and to a spot overlooking the Tower of London.  Since we did not have time to go inside of this very popular historical site, this was as close as we got to it with a view of the outer wall.

It was so neat to see this historic landmark right across the river from the ultra-modern round building, London’s City Hall.  Notice all of those people lined up on the right side of the photo?  It was now a little after 10am so it looked like it was shaping up to be a busy day here!

Carlton told us to take a seat on the steps while he gave us a thorough history lesson.  Given how long today’s tour was, it was great that he always looked out for places where we could sit down, although not always in the shade.

Out next stop was at a hidden gem that most people don’t know exists… Saint Dunstan in the East Church.  Behind this church is a garden that is walled off, keeping the noise of the city out and leaving a lush, green garden with benches to sit and relax.

The church itself is a beautiful old Gothic church, with white stone walls towering over the garden.

Carlton intended for us to stay here in the shade while he told us another bit of London’s history, but unfortunately the gardeners were making a lot of noise so we had to leave haha

As we continued west through the City of London, Carlton pointed out the Walkie Talkie building…

…and this neat view of the Shard peaking out at the end of the street (although it is actually located far away on the south bank)

Carlton led us around the corner to take a closer look at the outside of the Walkie Talkie building.  He told us an interesting story… When this building first opened, a man parked his Jaguar on a nearby side street.  When he returned 2 hours later, he found that parts of his car had melted causing major damage to his car.  It turns out that the sun had reflected off the concave window panels of the Walkie Talkie building in just the right ankle that it was directed straight down to the Jaguar and caused the car to melt!  The building had to be fitted with special shades on the outside of all the windows to change the angle that the sun reflected so this problem would not happen again.  Talk about an engineering fail!!  Standing in the plaza outside of the building, we could look up to see those sunshades clearly.

We walked through a few side streets to get to the Leadenhall Market.  Since it was still so early in the day, there weren’t many people around and we were able to take some photos of the beautiful building.

As we exited the Leadenhall Market, we had a direct view of the Cheese Grater building.  It’s so interesting to see these super modern highrise buildings contrasting with the old architecture of the market.

Carlton pointed out the St. Michael Cornhill Church which means it probably had some kind of historical significance, but I honestly can’t remember what he said haha

I kept seeing these posts around the City and I noticed that they had different dates at the bottom.  I asked Carlton what it meant and he said he wasn’t positive but he thought it was the date that post was repaired after it got knocked over or damaged.

The Bank of England, with a red double-decker bus driving by.  I really meant to ride on one of the buses (just to say I did it lol), but we never got a chance.

I just thought this was a pretty spot with the lamp post and the old building behind it…

Carlton explained the history of this pub, but as we walked around the corner, there was a plaque explaining the same story so I’ll just post a photo of it instead of re-explaining it hehe

Next, we stopped outside of St. Paul’s Cathedral where Carlton pointed out the irony that it is free to visit museums in London, but the famous churches (here and Westminster Abbey, for example) charge a surprisingly high admission fee!  Unfortunately, the sun was in a bad spot so it was hard to get a good photo while he was talking.  At least I got some cool photos when we passed here yesterday!

We walked past this store selling tons of Union Jack souvenirs.  Of course I didn’t have time to go inside during our tour, so this photo will have to serve as my keepsake instead.  In a way, it’s annoying that the building from across the street reflected in the window, but in a way, I kind of like the effect!

Our next stop was St. Bride’s Church.  Carlton explained that many brides in London take photos here before the wedding because the church spire looks like a wedding cake!  Our view of it was from an alley looking through the trees, but you get the idea…

While we were standing in the alley out of the way from the foot traffic on the sidewalk, Carlton took the opportunity to take our orders for lunch.  He called the restaurant where we were going and told them what we all wanted to eat from a set list of 5 items: fish and chips, burger and chips, sausage and mash, pesto penne pasta, or cottage pie (like shepherd’s pie but with no crust).  DH ordered the cottage pie and I ordered the fish and chips.  We still had about 30 minutes of walking before we would arrive at the lunch restaurant so now our food would be ready when we arrived.

We didn’t really make any more official stops before getting to lunch, but we did walk past the Royal Courts of Justice building so I snapped a quick photo of it.

I thought it was funny that they painted “Look Right —>” on the pavement to help people safely cross the street.  It seriously took me until our last day in London to get the hang of looking right first… you’d be surprised how hard it is to break a habit you’ve been practicing for nearly your entire life!

Carlton led us on the scenic route to get to the lunch restaurant.  Instead of walking on the Strand, which was a very busy street with lots of people crowding the sidewalks, we cut down to the river and walked along the north bank on a pedestrian path.  We didn’t know exactly where we were going for lunch nor how long it would take to walk there, so it was kind of surprising when it ended up being a 30 minute walk.  It would have been nice if Carlton either warned us that the walk would be 30 minutes straight, or if he found somewhere to stop at the midway point.  Since he didn’t do that, it felt like we were walking f-o-r-e-v-e-r!!  That wouldn’t have been a problem normally (you’ve seen the amount of walking we did every day on this trip, so 30 minutes is no big deal in the grand scheme of things), but nearly everyone in our group desperately needed to use a restroom by this point in the day and we all would have appreciated a potty break before doing all that walking!  We got to the restaurant at 12:30pm, so 3 hours after the tour started, and closer to 4 hours after we left our hotel this morning, so yea… you get the idea!

Lunch was at a pub called Walkers of Whitehall.

The restaurant was not very crowded, but the hostess was expecting us since we pre-ordered our food, and she led us downstairs to a private room with a booth large enough to fit our entire group at one table.  We had a family of 4 vegetarians on the tour with us, and they did not want to eat pasta for lunch (they said they eat A LOT of pasta as the default veggie dish haha), so Carlton told them where they could find some other options for good Indian food and they were going to meet us back at Walkers in an hour.  Another lady who was on the tour by herself decided she was going to leave right when we got to the pub.  It was actually kind of awkward because she told one of the other ladies while we were all in the restroom, and then she just left, so it became that lady’s obligation to tell Carlton.  We all thought it was very rude that she didn’t tell him she was leaving herself, likely to avoid having to give him a tip.

Anyway, that left us with 10 people at lunch including Carlton.  We sat down at our booth and they gave us this menu.  We had already ordered our food, so the waitress took our drink orders.  Strawberry Tours organized a deal for us where we get our choice of food and a half pint of beer/cider/soda/juice for £10. 

The food came out about 5 minutes later.  DH really enjoyed his cottage pie… it had a base of chopped beef with mashed potatoes on top, then a ton of gravy poured all over it, and of course a side of peas.  Those Brits are all about their peas!

My fish and chips was also very good, especially when I added some malt vinegar on top!

Carlton did not rush us at all to finish lunch, and even after we all finished eating, we enjoyed our time relaxing on the comfy booth and soaking up the air conditioning.  It was also a great opportunity to chat with the other people on our tour.  This was when DH learned that two of the other parties on our tour were specifically visiting London to attend the MLB London Series baseball game with the Yankees vs. Red Sox playing on Saturday night and Sunday afternoon.  He had noticed lots of people wearing Yankees and Red Sox shirts as we were walking around London yesterday and today, but he just assumed that it was other tourists visiting from the east coast (you can get to London in nearly the same time as you can get to California when coming from New York and Boston!)  Immediately, DH said he wanted to go to the game, but the others said the game sold out within minutes of tickets being released a few months ago.  DH was super bummed!

After lunch, we took a quick walk around the corner to see Trafalgar Square.  I thought it was a little weird that Carlton didn’t spend much time explaining the significance of this square considering it is so well known, but I think he wanted to avoid the area due to all the noise from the cars and other pedestrians.  He actually took out a portable microphone headset when we got here, and after using it for literally one minute, the batteries died!  He really was a great tour guide and we had a wonderful day with him, but I thought this was very unprofessional.  He knew he was leading this tour today and he knew that he liked using his headset when we walk through the more crowded parts of Westminster, so he should have known to charge his device last night.  Sorry… rant over!

Here is the glimpse we got of Nelson’s Column and Trafalgar Square as we walked around the corner towards The Mall.

How cute is this crosswalk sign!?  Carlton said this neighborhood is very LGBTQ friendly, and this was one tribute to that.  There was another sign that had the male and female symbols light up in green instead of the little walking man, but I couldn’t get a good photo of it.

We walked down along the Mall, which is the road that connects Trafalgar Square to Buckingham Palace.  Our next stop was to see this monument to the Duke of York.  There is a little chant that British children learn in school and Carlton was nice enough to sing it to us.  It’s actually a catchy little song…

The funny thing about this song is that it was very popular with tour guides throughout our time in London.  We actually heard the story of the Duke of York and listened to the song on 3 of our tours!  They say repetition is the key to learning new information, so maybe it wasn’t such a bad thing to hear this story and the song 3 times because I actually remember it now that the trip is over! Haha!

This monument was built in 1834 to honor the Duke of York.

This was the view I had all day, following Carlton and his red umbrella through the streets of London!  I told him how much I appreciated him carrying that umbrella all day long as it made it very easy to keep track of him when we got to more crowded areas.  There are moments in nearly every walking tour when I lose sight of my guide, so this eliminated that problem and we could always see the umbrella even on a busy sidewalk.

Notice how the road on The Mall is red… this is to create the effect of a very long red carpet leading up to Buckingham Palace.

The Prince Philip House is one of the more modern buildings on The Mall.

Next to that was a pair of statues of Queen Elizabeth and King George VI.  While we were standing in the shade, Carlton took a moment to explain how they play into the history of the British royalty and that they are the parents of the current queen, Queen Elizabeth II.  He also explained how Kings and Queens get their names, which I thought was really interesting because I never realized how it all works.

We took a detour onto a side street to see St. James’s Palace.  Look at all those fancy London taxicabs coming down the road!

St. James’s Palace was built in the 1530’s by King Henry VIII.  Carlton took this opportunity to explain what made King Henry VIII famous… all of his wives!  He explained the story behind each wife, and we learned the phrase people use to keep them straight: divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived.  I really learned a lot of British history on this tour, and Carlton had a great way of telling the story so that I would retain the information.

Heading out to The Mall, we walked all the way down to see Buckingham Palace.  We didn’t actually walk up to the gates because that would have involved crossing several lanes of traffic, but we had a good view of the palace and the gardens from where we stood.  Carlton was nice enough to give us a few minutes to take photos here.

Next, we crossed The Mall to enter St. James’s Park.  This is one of the 8 Royal Parks across London, and covers 58 acres including a lake with ducks, geese, and pelicans!  This park was so lush and green, and is a beautiful escape from the bustling city that surrounds it.

The London Eye peaked out above the trees in the distance…

If you look closely, you can see the pelicans hanging out on the rocks in the lake…

We exited St. James’s Park and walked past the House of Lords Appointments Commission.

Our next stop was to see Westminster Abbey.  This church has hosted 16 royal weddings, including when Prince William married Kate Middleton in 2011, and is the burial site of over 3,000 prominent British citizens.

The last stop on our epic full day walking tour was Parliament Square Garden.  I imagine this must be a great place to take photos of Big Ben, but we were out of luck with all that scaffolding in the way.

Overall, this tour was a fantastic way to get a huge overview of London.  We covered a ton of ground and Carlton was chock full of anecdotes and information about all of the sights we saw.  As wonderful as our tour was, I just looked back on their website and noticed that we did not visit all of the places they said we would see.  The places we missed were the Churchill War Rooms, Leicester Square, 10 Downing Street, and Tower Bridge.  We did get to see a bunch of places not mentioned on the website, but I’m not sure why we had to skip these other very notable locations.  We thanked Calrton for his time and tipped him generously before walking over to the Westminster Underground Station.  We wanted to go back to the hotel to get changed for tonight and grab some jackets because it was already cooling off and we didn’t want a repeat of yesterday!

After we finished at the hotel, we took a quick detour to check out the lobby of the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel.  We saw the grand facade every time we went to the train station, so we wanted to take a peak inside the hotel.  This hotel was originally built in the 1870’s by the railway company who was also building St. Pancras Station.  It was used as a hotel until 1935 when it was converted to offices for the railway, but then it was shut down in the 1980s after failing fire safety regulations.  In 2004, plans began to redevelop the historic building as a hotel, and the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel opened in 2011 as the building we can see today. 

Fun fact:  In 1996, the Spice Girls filmed their Wannabe music video in this building while it was still abandoned. 

I was on a mission to find the grand staircase featured in that music video, but wow does it ever look more majestic today after the restoration project!

Not the best photo because the light was shining in through the windows, but at least we can prove we were there hehe

We left the hotel through the front entrance and walked down the street to enter the St. Pancras train station. 

This bronze sculpture called “The Meeting Place” is featured inside the train station.

We hopped on the Tube to get to Covent Garden.  Our plan for tonight was to explore around this area and Leicester Square.  We asked Carlton for a recommendation of a good bar in this area and he suggested the Punch and Judy Pub because it over looks the courtyard outside Covent Garden where there are usually good street performers. 

We went inside and up the stairs to the bar area, but it was soooo crowded!  We could barely enter the room, let alone get to the bar or find a spot to stand on the balcony!  That was an unfortunate fail, so we went back downstairs to walk around Covent Garden.  At 6pm on a Friday evening, it’s no surprise that this place was packed with tourists and locals alike. 

We hadn’t eaten since lunch at the pub at 12:30pm, so I was getting hangry and didn’t have the patience for a place this hectic.  I ate half a Clif Bar to hold me over because we didn’t want to get dinner quite yet (I always keep one in my purse for hunger emergencies like this!), and we continued walking around and exploring the neighborhood.

We came across this colorful archway with rainbow lights, which I think was installed for Pride month.

We were close by one of the pubs I had bookmarked on my Google Map for places I wanted to see, so we took a detour to get a drink at The Cross Keys.  I just loved the décor outside of this pub!

There must have been over a hundred people hanging out in front of this pub, so we went inside to get a drink.  Funny enough, there was no one inside!  I guess the locals like to take advantage of the perfect summer weather when it’s not cold and rainy like the rest of the year!

I was happy to see that they had cider on tap, and DH really liked their beer selection.

After we finished our drinks, we walked around the corner and found this Pride Pop-Up Shop.  It turned out that this was the headquarters to coordinate the Pride parade which was scheduled for the following weekend.  We spent a few minutes chatting with the team of coordinators, but unfortunately, we were leaving London on Tuesday so we wouldn’t be there for the parade.

We walked around another corner and found Neals Yard, an amazingly colorful pedestrian alley that opened up into a small courtyard.  It was hard to take a good photo to capture everything because the space was so cramped, but this shows one of the corners.

By now, it was 7:30pm and we were ready to find somewhere to eat dinner.  We walked along one of the main streets that had lots of pubs and restaurants, looking for somewhere that looked lively and fun but that didn’t have a wait to get a table.

We decided to go to a pub called The Long Acre.  The décor was more modern than most of the other pubs we had been to, and it had a sports bar vibe.  They had a few big screen TVs and were airing the USA vs. France Women’s World Cup game, so it was pretty busy.  We couldn’t find any open tables on the main level, but there was a balcony upstairs that had an open table.  Unfortunately, we couldn’t really see the game from up there, but that was okay with us as long as we could sit and eat dinner.

Notice how everyone is looking towards us?  The TV mounted on the front of the balcony wall was showing the Women’s World Cup game.  The TV at the far side of the bar that we could see from our table was airing a random men’s soccer match that no one seemed to care about.

By now, I had ordered fish and chips at two restaurants but I had yet to try a steak and ale pie so that’s what I ordered.  I think DH ordered that too.

The food came out pretty quickly, and everything tasted good, but the portion was kind of small.  Luckily, we had a pint of cider and beer to help fill us up!

After dinner, we walked around Leicester Square and the surrounding area.  I couldn’t resist taking a photo of this Abbey Road display in the M&M World store!

We wandered over to Piccadilly Circus just as the buildings were lighting up at night.

Lots of people were hanging out around the statue of Eros.

It was getting late and we had had a long day, but we stepped into one last pub for a drink as we watched Team USA beat France to advance to the semi-final round of the Women’s World Cup.  We were kind of happy to be in England and not France tonight! haha

After the game ended, we got on the Tube to head back to our hotel after a wonderful day exploring London.

Fitbit Daily Summary… Steps: 25,031,  Miles: 11.52,  Flights of Stairs: 27

Thursday, June 27, 2019 ~ Travel to London, Thames River Cruise, Sky Garden, Nighttime walking tour

When my alarm went off at 7:30am, all I wanted to do was go back to sleep, but then I realized… We’re going to London today!  We quickly got ready and finished packing the rest of our bags.  I must say, it is much easier to pack when we don’t need to worry about weighing our bags or putting our liquids into 3-1-1 bags!  We piled our suitcases in the elevator with all 3 on top of each other so DH and I could both squeeze in there together.  When we got down to the ground floor, there was someone waiting to get in the elevator.  I can only imagine what he thought when the doors opened and we literally fell out into the hallway haha 

We got to Marks and Spencers right when they opened at 8:30am and I left DH out in the passage while I ran in to pick up a few croissants for breakfast that we could eat while we were waiting to board our train. 

Time for another transportation fiasco story… We wanted to take Uber to get to Gare du Nord, but that is kind of hard to do without an international data plan.  I thought the wifi from our hotel would reach out to the street, but since the hotel was way back inside the passage, the wifi signal only reached to about halfway down the hall.  I ran back to the hotel lobby, logged into the free wifi, and requested an Uber, dropping my location pin out on Grands Boulevards.  Once the app said our driver was on his way, I didn’t really need the wifi signal anymore.  It said he would arrive in 12 minutes, so I went back out to DH to help him roll the bags to the sidewalk and so we could wait for our driver to arrive.  It was now 8:35am, so needing to wait 12 minutes for the Uber cut things a little close with getting to our train on time, but we hoped for the best.  Our Eurostar tickets said we needed to arrive around 9am for the 10am train, and Gare du Nord is only about a mile from our hotel.

Fifteen minutes later, our driver still hadn’t arrived, but since the wifi didn’t reach out to the sidewalk, I had no idea where he was or if he cancelled on us or what could have happened.  I didn’t want to go back to the hotel because if the Uber driver came right after I left, there was no way for DH to tell me he was there.  I decided to just make a run for it, so I left DH to watch all the luggage while I literally ran through the passage back to the hotel.  Luckily there weren’t many people there at this early hour so I didn’t knock anyone over in the process!  I logged back into the wifi and checked the Uber app and it said the driver was one minute away.  Oh no!  Now I had to run all the way back out to the sidewalk, and then I saw DH down the street, loading our bags into the trunk of a car.  That was way more complicated than it needed to be, but thank goodness we were finally sitting in the back of the Uber and heading to Gare du Nord.  Normal hotels located out on the street wouldn’t have that issue because the wifi probably reaches out to the sidewalk, or if not, then it isn’t a big deal to stand just inside the lobby with the wifi signal and look out the windows for when the Uber arrives.  In all that time waiting for the Uber, we never even saw a taxi drive by so I’m not sure how else we could have gotten to the train.  Maybe the person at the front desk of the hotel could call us a taxi?  They knew we were checking out and going to the train station, but didn’t offer to get us a taxi so I’m not sure if that something they even do.

Ten minutes later, we pulled up to the front of Gare du Nord.  This is a huge transit hub, so I wasn’t exactly sure where to go.  I saw a sign for Eurostar when we first walked into the station, and it said to go up the stairs opposite platform 17.  Hmm, ok, where is platform 17?  We walked a little further into the station and saw the platform numbers, so we walked down to platform 17 on the far side of the building, and then we saw the stairs and escalator right near it, leading upstairs to a balcony level.  At the top of the escalator, there wasn’t any signage so we didn’t know where to go next.  We just kept walking and eventually saw a ticket window, so we handed the agent our papers that I had printed out at home with our ticket information.

Remember how I specifically picked seats facing the front of the train?  I did not want to sit facing backwards for two and a half hours, and booking our tickets within days of them being released gave me that preference.  When we checked in for our train, they informed us that they had changed the train for our journey this morning, and we were automatically reassigned seats.  They were happy to tell us that we were still sitting together (not everyone was so lucky!), but now we were sitting at one of those groups of 4 seats with 2 seats facing backwards, then a slim table top surface, then 2 other people sitting forwards facing us.  Not only did we have to sit facing backwards, but now we had the knees of strangers bumping into us?  No way!!  That was a big downgrade in our seats and I was not happy about it.  The agent said I could speak with someone at the gate after going through security and ask to have our seats changed.

The next part went so quickly that I’m not sure of the exact order we did everything, but we went through passport control to leave France, another passport control to enter England, and security for Eurostar.  They tell you on your tickets to arrive 60 minutes early to leave time for all of those things, and I could see it taking a long time if there was a line, but somehow we got super lucky because there were only about 5 people ahead of us when we arrived.  By the time we were ready for each stage of the process, the people ahead of us had already finished, so we entered the Eurostar terminal by 9:15am. 

Our next stop was to find the gate agent to ask about changing our newly assigned seats.  We explained what happened to him and asked if he could change us to different seats that were facing forwards with no table and other people facing towards us.  He searched the computer for a few minutes, and then he quietly said “I am going to upgrade you because I couldn’t find any other seats.”  Sounds good to us!  We didn’t know what exactly was entailed in the “upgrade” because he wasn’t specific and I never researched other seating options besides the basic cheap seats we originally booked.  Either way, at least we could sit facing forwards for the 2.5 hour journey. 

We still had about half an hour until boarding so we found a place to sit and pass the time.  There is surprisingly limited seating in the waiting area here.  Instead of rows of chairs, they had a bunch of ottoman-like benches.  They were each large and square so people could sit around them on all sides with no backrests, and you had to share with other parties because there weren’t that many of them.  It just seemed kind of weird, like they didn’t expect a lot of people to be sitting and waiting for a train there.  We arrived on the early side and got one of the last spots, so many people had to stand.  Rows of folding chairs would have made more sense, if you ask me!

About 15 minutes prior to departure, the gates opened and we were able to board the train.  There was a huge bottleneck as everyone tried to pass through the same set of doors, and then slowly go down the escalator (actually, it was a moving ramp, not an escalator, so you had to put your foot in front of your rolling suitcases or they would roll down the ramp and get away from you!).  Our tickets said a coach number so we walked forward to find our train car.  There was an agent standing at the door of each train car to check everyone in individually, so it took a while until it was our turn.  There were a bunch of people on line for our coach but they had tickets for a different coach, so it was just very chaotic because no one seemed to know where they were supposed to go. 

When it was our turn to check in, the man found our names on his tablet and told us to climb on board and put our luggage in the rack.  There was space above our seats to put our smaller rolling carry on bags so we just put the larger bag in the shared luggage rack. When we got to our seats, I could tell that we were in a nicer coach than we had originally booked.  Our original coach had 2 seats on either side of the aisle, but this coach had 1 seat on one side of the aisle and 2 seats on the other side, so the seats were bigger than normal train seats.  We were seated on the side with 2 seats together.  Across the aisle from us was an older couple who were seated in front and in back of each other.  We saw them ask if they could be reseated together and the agent said that was not possible. 

The train left on time, and after a short journey through the Paris suburbs, we entered the countryside.  This was our view for most of the journey:

About 30 minutes into the ride, the agent who checked us in came down the aisle rolling a food and beverage cart.  He handed each person a tray of food and asked if they wanted coffee or tea.  When he got to our row, someone from the row before us asked for milk for the coffee so he paused to help that man, then continued serving trays to the row after us.  Hmmm, that was weird.  Did he skip our row because he got distracted and didn’t realize what row he was up to?  Or did he skip our row because he somehow knew that the gate agent upgraded our seats, but since we technically didn’t pay for seats with meal service, we wouldn’t get the tray of food?  Honestly, it didn’t really matter either way because we already ate our croissants from Marks and Spencer so neither of us was hungry, but we still wanted to know what happened.  After he finished serving all the trays, the agent walked through the coach again to see if anyone wanted a refill of coffee.  When he got to our row, he looked at us with a confused expression, then said “Oh! Did I forget to serve your tray?”  LOL DH and I looked at each other and tried not to laugh!  I guess we were questioning it for nothing and everyone in this coach gets meal service.  A moment later, the agent came back with our trays for breakfast.  The croissant was good, but the roll was so hard that I couldn’t bite into it, and the yogurt was plain (yuck!) so we didn’t eat much of it after all. 

A little after 11am, the train made a brief stop to let some passengers off, then we continued the rest of the way into London.  We arrived in St. Pancras station at 11:45am.  Since we already went through passport control in Paris, we were able to exit the train with our luggage and just walk straight out of the station.  I knew our hotel was close to St. Pancras station, but I didn’t realize exactly how close until we were there.  As long as we exited the station through the correct exit (there are A LOT of exits from St. Pancras and Kings Cross station!), we just had to walk across Euston Road and our hotel was right there on the closest side street.  It was a very convenient location when coming and going each day!

We got to Central Hotel around 12 noon, and at first, the lady at the front desk said we had to come back later to check in to our room.  We had a lot of things planned today so we really just wanted to get into our room now and not have to worry about checking in later.  She went upstairs to check with the maid and it turned out she had just finished cleaning one of the rooms so we were able to check in to that room.  I thought there was an elevator when I booked this hotel, but we never found it.  Our room was on the first floor, which was really the second floor because the lobby is its own floor.  The hotel has a narrow staircase with a lot of turns, so it was a little tricky to carry the luggage upstairs, but at least we only had to do it one time and it was just one flight.  When we got to our room and opened the door, we were in for quite a surprise.  Our room was sooooo small! There wasn’t even enough floor space to open the suitcase on the floor!  I am fairly certain this room was smaller than an inside cabin on a cruise ship!  The bathroom was so small that it had a sliding barn door, and when you sit on the toilet, the sink hangs over your lap and your toes hit into the frame of the shower stall!  There was a closet along the wall, but it was all hanging space and no shelves, so it wasn’t very useful for the kind of packing we did.  There were 2 nightstands with 3 drawers in each, so at least we could use that to store some of our clothes.  We made it work, but it was definitely a tight squeeze. 

I took this photo later in the week, so apologies for the messy room.  I was standing in the doorway, the closet and desk space is on the left, and the bathroom is on the right, and that’s it!  It was seriously the smallest hotel room I have ever seen!

After we got settled in the room, we went back across the street to St. Pancras Station to get some pounds from the ATM.  We also needed to get our transit cards so we found the vending machines.  We decided to get the Oyster Cards for each of us because I didn’t like the idea of using my contactless credit in case it got lost in the hustle and bustle of the Tube station or whatever.  The machine was very easy to use and we were able to load the 7-day Travelcard right onto the Oyster Card before it was dispensed from the machine.  We were able to pay for the cards using a Costco Visa chip and signature card, so everything worked seamlessly!

Thanks to our double breakfast on the Eurostar, we weren’t hungry for lunch yet, so we hopped on the Tube to get to the Westminster stop.  Already, we felt more at ease using the metro system in London.  Everything was in English so obviously that made things easier, but it was more than that.  Instead of having to go up and down a bunch of flights of stairs, London had escalators in their metro stations!  Funny enough, we still averaged over 20 flights of stairs per day in London, just like in Paris, but it was just nice knowing we could ride the escalator and conserve some energy in the stations.

Exiting the Westminster station, I had my first “OMG, I’m in London” moment… Big Ben was right in front of us!

Unfortunately, the tower is in the middle of a 4-year-long restoration process so it was completely hidden under scaffolding.  It wasn’t quite the iconic building we had hoped to see, but I guess we can just add it to the list of major monuments hidden under scaffolding that we saw on this vacation.  At least they left the clock exposed!  Unfortunately, the sun was in the wrong place for a decent photo so this was the best I could get…

Back when I was still researching our plans for this trip, I knew I wanted to take a sightseeing cruise along the Thames River.  There are several companies that offer similar tours between Westminster Bridge and Tower Bridge, and then a few other companies that continue further along the river to Greenwich and other towns.  The company I liked most was called City Cruises.  They offer scheduled tours throughout the day, going in both directions from Westminster Pier to Tower Pier.  They do have boats that go all the way to Greenwich but I didn’t plan to go out there considering our limited time in London.  You can buy tickets online but you need to pick a specific boat time.  I knew I wanted us to ride the boat today, but since we were just arriving from Paris and I didn’t know how the timing would work out, I didn’t want to pre-purchase tickets and lock us in to a time slot.  There wasn’t a price benefit to booking in advance, but it would have been nice to avoid waiting on a ticket line.

About a month before the trip, I was looking around on Groupon and found a deal for a 3-day unlimited ride pass with City Cruises which cost £1 more than the cost of one single ride.  Even though we had a busy schedule planned in London and I wasn’t sure if we would have time to take a second river cruise, it just made sense to buy the Groupon in case we were looking for something to do one day and had a chance to take a second cruise.  For only £1, we thought it was worth the risk that we may only take one ride. 

The Groupon confirmation wasn’t an actual ticket, so we needed to go to the ticket window when we got to the pier to exchange the voucher for our 3-day pass.  The lady gave me a receipt that we were supposed to use as our “ticket” so I kept it somewhere safe to make sure we wouldn’t lose it.  It was now a little after 1pm and the next boat was leaving at 1:20pm.  There were A LOT of people on line ahead of us, but we really wanted to get on this boat because the next one wasn’t leaving until 2pm.

When we finally reached the front of the line, a crew member helped us climb aboard, and we were glad we made it before the boat filled up.  The problem was that almost every seat upstairs was already taken.  We went back down to the lower level, but there wasn’t any air conditioning and it was extremely hot in there, plus it’s not very fun to sit inside because you don’t have a good view during the tour.  We went back upstairs again and had to look very closely at the rows to find rows where people were spread out and taking up more than one seat per person.  We did a similar cruise in Chicago and the staff walked around and forced people to squeeze in so everyone could have a seat.  It would have been nice if the staff on this boat did that instead of forcing us to ask people to move over.  We actually had a few people refuse to move in, which I thought was really rude because it’s not like they paid for 2 seats on the boat!  Eventually, we found one seat for each of us, but not in the same row, so we had to sit separately for the tour. It was kind of a bummer, but the tour only takes 40 minutes so we made it work.

After the boat left Westminster Pier, it went to the south side of the river to pick up more people at the London Eye Pier.  I honestly have no idea where those people found seats because the boat was already really full, but we stayed docked there for about 10 minutes so there must have been some people joining us.  While we had some time to kill, I got to take some fun photos of the London Eye!

Looking down the river towards Big Ben and Parliament as the boat turned around

As the boat pulled away from the London Eye Pier, the guide came on the microphone to introduce himself.  It was cool to have a live guide as we cruised along the river, but you could tell that his speech was scripted.  It was funny, but you could just tell that he did not write the jokes and he says the same thing on every tour.  The guide pointed out each landmark and gave a little anecdote or bit of information about each place.

Hungerford Bridge and Golden Jubilee Bridges

Cleopatra’s Needle

OXO Building, the “Pregnant” Building, and the Shard off in the distance

It’s funny how many of the buildings in London are named for their shape.  This one is said to look like a pregnant woman…

Shakespeare’s Globe Theater

A good view of the Cheese Grater, the Scalpel, and the Walkie Talkie Buildings

The Shard

The Walkie Talkie Building, with a good view of the top level where the Sky Garden is located

The Tower of London

Tower Bridge… you can also see our guide at the front of the building, and how crowded it was on the upper level

The boat docked right on time at 2pm, and by now we were getting hungry.  There was a Paul restaurant right near where we exited the pier, so we stopped in there to pick up a couple of sandwiches, and took them to go to eat on a nearby bench in the shade.

Our next destination was the Sky Garden, a free observation deck at the top of the Walkie Talkie building.  Each Monday at 8:30am London time, they release tickets on their website for 3 weeks in advance for time slots in 15-minute increments.  There are a different number of tickets available for each of those time slots, but it was usually around 150 tickets each.  When I was planning this trip, I knew we’d want to go to the Sky Garden today because it is so close to where we ended the river cruise, but since I did not know exactly which river cruise boat we would take, I didn’t know exactly what time we could go to the Sky Garden.  To hedge our bets, I booked the Sky Garden tickets for 2 time slots- 2:30pm for if we made the 1:20pm cruise, and 3:15pm for if we took the 2pm cruise.  Either way, we had about 30 minutes to get from Tower Pier to the Walkie Talkie building, a 0.4 mile walk away.  Since we took the 1:20pm cruise, we arrived at the Walkie Talkie building at 2:25pm to use our first set of tickets. 

There was a long line of people waiting outside the entrance, but they were all walk-ups who didn’t have timed entry tickets so we could walk past them.  When we went in the front door, we showed our tickets to the lady at the front desk and she told us to proceed through security.  Crazy enough, this was by far the strictest security we encountered so far on the trip.  In Paris, we had to go through a metal detector and our bags went through an X-ray machine at every museum.  At the Sky Garden, they do that as well, but they made us empty everything out of our pockets (even pieces of paper like the paper ticket we were holding to access the Sky Garden!) and we even had to take off our watches.  I thought they were going to make us take off our wedding bands, but luckily they didn’t go that far. 

Once that was done, we got in an elevator which went directly up to the 35th floor for the Sky Garden.

We exited the elevator into a big open space with lots of tables and seating areas and a big bar in the middle.  We walked past that to go straight outside onto the balcony with a beautiful view over the Thames and Southwark.

The safety glass was good for blocking the wind, but not ideal for taking photos!

Looking straight up to the overhang above the balcony

I couldn’t get a good photo without the glare from the windows, so this was the best I could do…

It was such a clear day that it felt like we could see across all of England!  We were really lucky with the weather because this is London and I know they have a lot of rainy days!

Back inside the building, we walked up the stairs to see the views from a different angle.

You can see the big open seating area and the outdoor balcony behind us in this photo

There were live plants and trees growing in the Sky Garden, so it really was a garden in the sky!

A great view of the Gherkin, the Cheese Grater, and the Scalpel Buildings

Looking down into the Tower of London, and the Tower Bridge

We spent about 30 minutes walking around and checking out the views.  We had tickets to come back at night in a few days, so we planned to visit the bar at that time.  DH’s company has a small office near the Sky Garden, so he pre-arranged to visit the office later this afternoon.  We had some time to spare so we went for a walk around the City of London.

I thought this building looked really cool, especially with the sun reflecting off the balconies…

As we were walking, we cut through a pedestrian walkway between two buildings.  It was still June which is Pride month, so we saw a lot of celebration throughout London, including this rainbow-painted walkway!  How cool!

When we passed this red phone box on a side street, I couldn’t resist taking a photo!  It was the first one we saw, but as the days passed, we saw tons of them all over the city.

We cut through the shopping center called One New Change.  I loved how St. Paul’s Cathedral was framed between the buildings and reflected in the mirrored windows!

Another red phone box with St. Paul’s Cathedral peeking out through the trees

We’re in London!

We found our way to DH’s company’s office and spent some time chatting with his coworkers.  The original plan was to go to the Museum of London after leaving his office, but we decided to skip the museum and find somewhere to sit down and have a drink instead.  I was looking forward to that museum and learning some history about London, but we were tired and just wanted to sit down and relax for a bit.  I had wanted to visit the Anchor Bankside, so even though it was over a mile away, we decided to head that way.  We walked over the London Bridge (thank goodness it wasn’t falling down!) and down to the Anchor pub.  This place opened in the early 1600’s and is considered one of the oldest taverns in London.  It is located right on the south bank of the Thames and has a huge outdoor seating area, making it the perfect place for a drink on this cool summer afternoon.

DH had a mission to visit as many pubs as possible during his time in London, so this was our first of many drinks at pubs.  I was very excited to learn that every pub we visited had at least one cider on tap!  Given the choice between beer and cider, I will pick cider every time, so I was thrilled that it was so readily served in London!  This cider was definitely my favorite of all the ciders I had… it was a berries and cherries cider!

Another thing that I loved about many of the pubs in London was the buildings were so pretty!  They often had fun, bright paint colors and beautiful colorful flowers featured somewhere on the building, and they were all begging me to take a photo of their exteriors (so you will see many pub photos in the coming days! Haha)

By the time we finished our drinks, it was a little after 5pm and we were starting to get hungry.  We could have stayed at Anchor for dinner, but decided we wanted to explore someplace different so I checked my Google Map to see what was nearby.  Another pub I had wanted to visit was about a one mile walk away, but it would be a scenic walk along the river and across a bridge so we decided to head over there.  I’m not surprised that we had such high step counts every day of this trip considering how often I looked at my map, said “Oh, that’s only a mile away” and we walked there!  All those one mile walks add up fast!!

On the way, we walked past Shakespeare’s Globe Theater.  I considered trying to get tickets to a show one night but we just didn’t have enough days for all the things I wanted to do, so that will have to wait for a future trip to London.

We crossed the Thames via the Blackfriars Railway Bridge.  Right next to it is a bridge used for the train tracks.  That bridge looks really funky and has a great view looking further to the right towards the other bridges crossing the river.  I didn’t realize this at the time, but we could have used our unlimited ride metro passes to enter this station and walk along the platform and see the view/take photos essentially for free.  Oh well, we’ll add that as one more thing to do next time we visit London!

Just a block north of the river after crossing the bridge, we reached our dinner destination: The Black Friar.  This pub was built in 1875 on the site of a former medieval Dominican friary, and much of the architecture reflects that.  As we approached the pub, we could tell it was extremely popular with the locals as there were hundreds of people standing outside, enjoying a pint after work. 

Notice the black statue of a friar overlooking the courtyard.  This was another example of the interesting exterior decorations on the pubs in London.

Funny enough, when we went inside, there were only a handful of people standing at the bar ordering drinks, and nearly all of the tables in the restaurant were empty!  I guess everyone was just standing outside with their drinks and not interested in having dinner?  To be fair, it was not even 6pm yet so we were definitely early for the dinner rush.

The hostess took us to a table at the back of the pub in this amazing room with marbled stone walls and tiled mosaics on the arched ceiling with funny little black stone sculptures on the walls. 

We didn’t take much time to look over the menu because we both knew what we wanted for dinner… fish and chips!

Since there were so few people eating at the pub, our food came out very quickly.  I’m not quite sure what I was expecting because I have had fish and chips many times in the States, and this was pretty much the same thing.  The fish was a nice, big piece, and it was fried to a crispy perfection (as were the chips, but most of them are hiding under the fish in the photo), and the waitress brought us a bottle of malt vinegar so I could eat it the proper British way!

So, do you remember how extremely hot it was while we were in Paris?  The high temperature was over 90 degrees every day we were there, and we were hot and sweaty pretty much 24 hours a day for 6 days straight.  We were greatly looking forward to visiting London as it was forecast to be cooler.  Well imagine our surprise when it was so cool that we were shivering in our shorts and t-shirts!!  We were going on a walking tour tonight along the Thames River, so if we were this cold at 7:30pm before the sun set, we knew we wouldn’t last long at the walking tour which started at 9:15pm if we didn’t go back to the hotel and get changed.  We weren’t planning to go back to the hotel until after the tour at the end of the night, but we had enough time and an unlimited ride metro pass, so why not?  We took the Tube back to the hotel and changed into jeans, and we brought a light sweater for me and a light jacket for DH in case we got cold in our short-sleeve shirts.

We took the Tube back down to the south bank, and this was the beautiful scene as we exited the station:

I just loved how the sunset reflected on the windows, and the colorful flags hanging overhead made for a great photo!

We also stopped to look at this statue of Nelson Mandela

As I’ve mentioned, tonight’s evening activity was a 2.5 hour free walking tour along the south bank of the Thames River to see the nighttime skyline and learn a bit of history about the city.  The tour was offered through Free Tours by Foot, the same company we had great experiences with in New Orleans, Chicago, San Francisco, and New York.  It wasn’t exactly ideal to take this tour tonight considering we had a one hour time zone change coming from Paris, so our bodies felt like it was an hour later, plus we had already had a very long day of travel and touring.  It sounded like a fun tour, and they only offered it two days a week, with the other option being Monday night when we already had a 12-hour bus tour booked and knew we would be too tired to do this tour afterwards.  We figured that since it was a free tour, we would show up at the starting point and stay with the tour as long as we could, and if we got too tired, we would leave early. 

The tour met in Jubilee Gardens, a small park near the London Eye.  By the way, we decided not to ride in the London Eye.  We have been in the High Roller Ferris Wheel in Las Vegas, which is basically the same thing so we’ve already had that experience.  We could see the views from the Sky Garden for free, so the London Eye didn’t seem like a good way to spend our time or money.  Yes, you get a better view of Parliament and Big Ben from the London Eye, but those buildings were all covered in scaffolding so there wasn’t much to see.  Maybe if we go back to London in the future and if all the buildings are exposed and if the weather is perfectly clear, we might consider riding the London Eye.  We’ll see!

Anyway, this was about as close as we got to the London Eye on this trip.

Our tour guide’s name was Matt and he moved to London from Poland a few years ago.  Matt was a great guide, offering lots of funny anecdotes and interesting information about the sites along the Thames.  I really enjoyed taking this tour in the evening and getting to see some of the activity along the river at night, and of course the buildings all looked so beautiful in the twilight glow.  There were about 30 people on the tour with us, so it was probably the biggest group I’ve had for walking tour.

Our first stop was to see Parliament and Big Ben from across the river.  In the foreground, you can see the pier where our tour boat docked earlier this afternoon to let more people onto our already-crowded sightseeing boat.

Turning in the other direction, we could see Hungerford Bridge and Golden Jubilee Bridges, with Charing Cross Station glowing in red in the distance.

This was not a part of the tour, but we walked past this huge skate park under a terrace for the building above.  I looked it up and this skate park was built in the 1970’s. 

We continued walking along the river, stopping every few minutes so Matt could tell us a story about London’s history.  I wished those barges weren’t in the river because they were blocking a beautiful scene of St. Paul’s Cathedral and the City of London!

The red bridge in the foreground is Blackfriars Railway Bridge, where we walked over the river before to get to dinner.  The building with the long slant on its right side is The Cheese Grater, the one with the sharp slant towards the top right side is The Scalpel, and the funky building on the far right is The Walkie Talkie (with the Sky Garden up on its roof).

As the sun set and the sky got darker, the buildings looked even more beautiful!

Standing in the same spot, I turned to the left to take this photo.  This is the train station bridge at night, so you can imagine how pretty the view is from here!

People often confuse Tower Bridge and London Bridge.  I showed some photos of Tower Bridge from the river cruise earlier this afternoon.  It is the one with the two towers!  London Bridge is a fairly boring bridge during the day, but at night, it is lit up with bright colors.  It was so pretty to see the colors reflecting on the river!

By this point in the tour, the temperatures dipped down to the low 50’s and the wind was blowing so strongly that it was hard to stand still enough to take a good photo!  Those light jackets we brought along were not cutting it and everyone on the tour was shaking because it was so cold!  Luckily, Matt took us on a detour away from the river, so the buildings helped to block the wind, but it was still very cold! 

We passed this mural of Shakespeare.  This is one of the things I love about walking tours… we would have never found this spot on our own.

Around the corner from that mural, Matt showed us The Clink Prison Museum, which used to be a medieval prison.  It is located in a back alley one block from the river, but again, we would never have seen that if not for the walking tour.  It was now 10:45pm and I was so exhausted I could barely keep my eyes open.  The next stop on the tour was going to be out on London Bridge to see the view of the Tower Bridge lit up at night, but I was just way too cold and tired to continue on.  We told Matt we needed to leave and tipped him for is efforts.  The London Bridge Underground station was close by, so we walked over there to head back to our hotel.

Exiting at Kings Cross Station, I was so happy they had an escalator because I really didn’t have the strength to walk up all those stairs!  It was amazing how clean the Underground stations were in London.  Having lived in New York City for six years, I don’t think I ever saw a subway station this clean!

We got back to our hotel around 11:30pm (which felt like 12:30am thanks to the time zone change), and we were fast asleep within minutes of hitting the pillows!

Fitbit Daily Summary… Steps: 24,738,  Miles: 11.97,  Flights of Stairs: 24 (had I lasted for the end of the walking tour, that would have tipped me over 25,000 steps and over 12 miles today… soooo close!)

Saturday, March 9, 2019 ~ New Orleans, Louisiana

With less than 48 hours to spend exploring New Orleans before the cruise, we had to maximize our time to see as much as possible.  We had talked about maybe taking a swamp tour in the Everglades when we cruised out of Florida in 2016 and 2018.  Since we never managed to fit it in to those trips, I really wanted to do it here in New Orleans.  We did not have a rental car, and we needed to find a company that included transportation, so that helped to narrow down our options.  While several companies provide transportation, most of them require you to meet at their office somewhere in the French Quarter.  For people staying at hotels in the French Quarter, this is a great option, but for us, we didn’t want to deal with getting over there very early in the morning and preferred to find a company who picks us up at our hotel.  Cajun Pride Swamp Tours provides that service, so we decided to book with them.  They offer 2 versions of the swamp tour, with the regular tour in a bigger boat that holds up to 40 passengers versus the VIP tour boat which only holds up to 16 passengers.  Either way, the tour is an hour and a half long, and travels along the river in their private swamp that protects the wildlife, with no fishing and no hunting allowed so the animals are not afraid of humans and are more likely to approach the boats.  We decided to book the VIP tour because the reviews said we would have more opportunities to interact with the animals and the guide, and it seemed worth it for the $18 additional cost.  It was easy to book the tour online through their website, and they offered free cancellation with at least three days notice.  The one quirk was that when you tell them where you need to be picked up, they use a drop down list of all the hotels in New Orleans.  We were staying in an AirBNB, so that was obviously not listed as one of the options.  Luckily, the Garden District Bed and Breakfast hotel was located just two short blocks from our AirBNB, so I just picked that as our pick up spot.  The directions said we needed to be outside “our hotel” by 8am and the shuttle would pick us up between 8 and 8:30am.  Of course it would have been better to be able to sit in the lobby to wait for the shuttle, but I figured we’d just quietly loiter outside the bed and breakfast and hopefully no one minded.

This morning, we woke up at 7am, got dressed and packed up our day bags, and left the AirBNB in search of somewhere to eat breakfast.  Most of the restaurants on Magazine Street don’t open for breakfast until 8am or later, but that would not work for us as we needed to be outside the bed and breakfast by then.  A few blocks from our hotel, we found District Donuts which was perfect for our needs.  They offer all sorts of funky flavors for their donuts, and DH was able to get some good coffee so he was happy.

I ordered the Samoa donut (coconut caramel glaze, vanilla pastry cream, toasted coconut, hot fudge drizzle) and DH got the Blueberry Cheesecake donut (blueberry glaze, cheesecake filling, blueberry, crushed graham cracker).  Both were really good, and they were filling because they were both stuffed with cream so we were held full for a good 3 hours after eating.

These donuts were super messy, so we made sure to finish eating at the restaurant and got back over to the bed and breakfast by 7:55am.  At exactly 8am, we saw the shuttle driving down the street, and the driver, Byron, greeted us with a smile.  It turned out that we were the first pick up of the group, which is not all that surprising because we were probably staying the furthest from the French Quarter of all the pick up locations.  We spent the next 30 minutes driving around to the other hotels in the French Quarter to pick up the rest of the people in our group.  At 2 of the hotels, there was no one waiting outside to be picked up so our driver had to call those groups, and both of them said they were told they would be picked up at 9:30am.  Something tells me that they just misunderstood the instructions because all of the paperwork said we would be picked up between 8-8:30am for a swamp tour that starts at 9:30am.  I guess they just heard the 9:30am part and didn’t realize that is when the swamp boat leaves the dock, not the pick up time from the French Quarter.  Anyway, both of those groups were instructed to call the office to reschedule their tour.  Hopefully there was space on some of the tours later this afternoon and they could be picked up on the next round of the shuttle.

When we were done with all the pick ups by 8:30am, the driver headed for the highway to drive out to the swamp in La Place.  It was very foggy this morning, so we didn’t have the most exciting view from the bus.  Fingers crossed that the fog would lift before the swamp tour started!

We arrived at the Cajun Pride Swamp Tours office by 9am, so we had 30 minutes to check in for our tour, browse the gift shop, and use the rest rooms.  This was the bus they used for the shuttle…

While we were waiting for our tour to start, we took some time to check out their grounds.  They had 4 or 5 big swamp boats tied up to the dock and I was immediately happy we booked the VIP boat.  Here is the boat for the general tour…

Notice how there are 4 long metal benches?  Once the boat was fully loaded with all the passengers, it didn’t seem like anyone had a good view!  The people sitting on the two benches on the outside of the boat had their back to the river so they had to turn around to look at the animals behind them.  The people who sat on the two middle benches would be looking directly at the people on the outside benches, so they would have to look between those people to try to see the animals.  It just didn’t seem well thought out and I can imagine everyone on this boat had a back ache after 90 minutes of twisting and turning to see the animals.

This is our boat for the VIP tour…

The bench is along the middle of the boat, and has a back rest and thick foam padding on the seats, which the bigger boat did not have.  We sat with our backs to the middle of the boat, facing out towards the water with no one blocking our view.  We ended up only having 9 people on our tour, plus 1 tour guide, so there was space to stand up and walk around, or we could kneel on the bench if the animals were on the opposite side of the boat from where we were sitting.  Considering this was a tour I only planned to take once in my lifetime, it was well worth the extra $18 to have this VIP experience!

Just to point out one more thing about both of these boats… These are flat bottom boats with a canopy overhead to provide protection from the sun (or rain).  Some of the other companies I researched had the stadium seating style air boats, but those do not have any cover overhead and I didn’t want to worry about weather issues on the day of our tour, so this was another perk for using Cajun Pride.

Here’s a few more photos from the visitor center grounds…

They have lots of picnic tables so if you pack a lunch, you can eat comfortably.  I think they also offer some lunches to purchase in the office.

Some of the animals we might find out in the swamp…

Can you see the two baby alligators?  One is right up front on the grass, and the other is sitting on the wood ramp out in the lake…

At 9:30am, the guides came out and gathered everyone up to board the boats.  We were given yellow wristbands to indicate that we were on the VIP boat, so our guide could easily identify us.  Our guide’s name was Danny, and he helped us all safely board the boat and get comfortable before undoing the lines and taking our boat out into the river.

Swamp tour selfie!

The name of this swamp is the Greater Man Shack Swamp, and it is supposedly haunted (although I didn’t really see any evidence of that!).  Danny explained that alligators don’t come out of bromation (the name for hibernation for cold blooded animals) from the winter until late April or May, so with our tour being in early March, it was still too cold for them.  He said we probably would not see any big alligators, but that some of the smaller alligators were out and we would see lots of those.  We saw many, many alligators on this tour, but they topped out at four feet long, whereas had we taken the tour over the summer, we could have seen alligators four or five times that length!  Oh well, what can we do?  This is when we are here and we will make the most of it! 

Captain Danny

Danny was great at making sure we all had a good experience on this tour.  Whenever we approached wildlife on the shore of the river, he gave a few seconds for one side of the boat to observe, then he turned the boat around so the other side could see it.  The alligators move very slowly, so there was plenty of time for everyone to see them, and we traveled the same path out and back so most of them were still in the same place when we passed on the way back at the end of the tour.  I took several hundred photos during this tour, but I’ll try to narrow it down to just a few to share with you.

One guy in the water and another up on the log

We followed the bigger boat down the river, but they stayed in the middle of the river whereas we could get closer to the sides where the animals were hiding.

These raccoons were an unexpected surprise!  There is a group of 3 raccoons that live here and they recognize Danny’s voice and come out of the trees, knowing he feeds them every morning.  They were so fuzzy and chubby!

A turtle on a log

Don’t forget to take a moment to look up at the beautiful trees!

It looks like this gator wants to jump up on the turtle on the log.  I loved how pretty the reflection looked in the water…

This was the site of a mass grave for people who died in a hurricane in 1915

Check out how crowded the bigger boat looked!

3 gators hanging out on the log

At one point, this alligator swam up really close to our boat.  He was just a few feet away and I was hoping he would open his mouth or try to jump up or something, but he just stayed in the water with his eyes staring right at us.

Danny tried to entice the gator to swim closer by sticking out his hand, but this is as close as he got…

Now it was time for show and tell!  First, Danny passed out the skins of 8 or 10 different animals.  Is it weird that we look so happy to be holding a skunk and raccoon skin? Haha

Two crawfish in a cage

a baby ribbon snake

For the grand finale, Danny introduced us to his friend Bruce, a 3.5 year old alligator who was stowed in a cooler in the boat this whole time!  He put a rubber band around his mouth so he wouldn’t bite us, then he showed us how to safely hold him.  Danny wasn’t really concerned that Bruce would hurt us, but that we would hurt Bruce.  The worst thing that could happen would be if he wiggled out of our hands and ended up in the water.  With that rubber band around his mouth, he has no way to feed or defend himself and he would not live long like that out in the wild.  Danny said that if Bruce did try to wiggle away, to make sure that he lands inside the boat so Danny could catch him.

I’m holding an alligator!!

After everyone had a chance to play with Bruce, Danny told me to come up to the front of the boat, and he plopped Bruce down on my shoulder!

Me, Danny, and Bruce

After that, Danny brought the boat back to the pier and the tour ended promptly at 11am.  Overall, we both thought the tour was fun and we learned a lot about alligators and the swamp so we were glad we took the time to take this tour.  At around 11:20am, Byron returned with the shuttle bus to drive us back to New Orleans.  He dropped us off in the reverse order of how he picked us up this morning, which meant we were the last ones off the bus.  Luckily, it only took about 15 minutes to drop everyone off, so we were back at our AirBNB by 12:15pm.  We ran upstairs to quickly get changed, then went down to the restaurant in the building next door to our house.

Tracey’s is a sports bar with a restaurant where you order at the counter in the back.  They serve fresh oysters and crawfish, and have a full menu of sandwiches.

DH ordered a roast beef poboy.

I ordered a half order of the Muffuletta sandwich, which is a New Orleans sandwich filled with olive salad, cheese, and a variety of meats like ham, salami, mortadella, and capicola, served on a loaf of Italian bread.  It was such a delicious combination of flavors, but even though I only ordered a half size order, it was so huge that I only ate half of it!  It was too bad we were only going to be in New Orleans for a short time because, while I did have a fridge and microwave in our AirBNB so I could have taken it back to eat later, there was not going to be a chance to actually eat it.

After lunch, we took the bus back to the French Quarter.  We got off the bus at Canal Street and walked down towards the river to check out the sites.  It was extremely windy, and it started to drizzle, but luckily it stopped quickly and that was the only time we had any kind of rain over the entire vacation. 

While we were walking, we saw this Holocaust Memorial and walked over to look at it, but we didn’t really understand what it was.  We walked along the path and then realized why we were so confused… they temporarily removed the art panels for refurbishment!  The sign said it would take four months to complete the work, so I guess we were just here at the wrong time.

As we continued to walk along the water, we saw this statue- Monument to the Immigrant.  Apparently she had a lot of fun during Mardi Gras because if you look closely, you can see that she is holding green beads in her hand!

This time tomorrow, we will see our cruise ship at this spot!

The Natchez Steamboat was boarding for an afternoon tour.  There were hundreds of people waiting in line, so I can only imagine how crowded the boat would be for this tour!

We continued along the path until we came to the terrace overlooking Jackson Square and the famous St. Louis Cathedral.  You can see the flag is held out to the side, blowing in the strong winds.  The weather forecast actually predicted “strong, damaging winds” for this weekend, and they weren’t kidding!!

Our next activity for today was a free walking tour of the French Quarter with Free Tours By Foot.  We have had great experiences with free walking tours in other cities like Chicago, Puerto Vallarta, and Cartagena, so we wanted to take one here in New Orleans too.  They have all sorts of tours throughout the day, covering different topics and areas of the city.  This two-hour tour of the French Quarter was scheduled for 2:45pm, which worked perfectly as it gave us time to get back to the AirBNB after the swamp tour, change clothes, go out for lunch, and get back down to the French Quarter with a few minutes to spare.  Our guide, Matthew, sent us an email the night before with directions to meet him at the Andrew Jackson statue in the center of the Square.

About 25 people showed up for this tour, which made it a little tricky to stay together and hear what Matthew had to say once we got deeper in the Quarter.  Matthew was good about gathering us together safely in a way that we wouldn’t get hit by a car driving down the street but also wouldn’t block pedestrian traffic on the sidewalks.  We zigzagged all around the tiny streets of the French Quarter, stopping every few minutes for Matthew to share stories and anecdotes about New Orleans history. 

I was totally obsessed with the beautiful wrought iron balconies, one more intricate and ornate than the next.  My favorite story that Matthew told us was about the “Romeo Poles.”  As the story goes, men used to climb up the poles on the street level to get to the ladies on the balconies of the higher floors.  The same thing happens during Mardi Gras as people down on the streets try to climb the poles to get to the more exclusive parties up on the balconies.  Some of the hotels apply grease to these poles to prevent people from climbing up!  I thought that was really funny and interesting.

The tour ended at 4:20pm, so it was closer to an hour and a half long instead of the 2 hours originally planned, but that was okay with us as we got to see plenty and were ready to move on anyway.  We started walking back towards Bourbon Street and saw this sign stating “cell phone use prohibited”… That just seemed really odd to us.  Was it because of the school?  Did it just mean you can’t use your phone while driving?  Hopefully it didn’t mean you can’t use your cell phone while walking around because that would be impossible to enforce!

When we made it back to Bourbon Street, it was a total mob scene!  It was much more crowded than when we were here last night, and it was so loud that we could barely hear each other talking.  I guess Saturday is a more popular night to go out on Bourbon Street, but this was just too much for me… at least without any drinks in my system! Haha  I had wanted to check out the piano bar in Pat O’Brien’s, so this seemed like the perfect time to rest our feet, order a cocktail, and sing along to some fun music.  As we approached the bar, there was a huge line of people lined up on the sidewalk.  I left DH at the end of the line and headed to the front to make sure that this line was going where we wanted to go.  As it turned out, Pat O’Brien’s is right next door to the famous Preservation Hall Jazz Club, so all of those people were waiting to go there and we had no wait at all to walk right into the piano bar. 

Pat O’Brien’s is divided into three sections… to the left is a traditional bar, to the back is a huge outdoor patio, and to the right is the piano bar.  The piano bar section had a really cool atmosphere with dark lighting, brick walls, ceramic beer steins hanging from the ceiling, and 2 piano players set up on the stage at the front of the room.

This was the outdoor patio area:

Their signature drink is the Hurricane, so of course we had to try it.  Just be careful when you order drinks here, as they serve their specialty drinks in a souvenir glass and they automatically charge you $4 per glass, but you can get a refund if you return your glass to the bartender. 

The Hurricanes were very strong and they were so large that it was like two drinks in one!

We stayed for about an hour and enjoyed singing along with the piano players.  Tables turned over fairly quickly, so while there was always groups of people coming and going, it never felt too crowded at any one time.  We left around 6pm to walk around on Bourbon Street, and somehow it was more tolerable after drinking those Hurricanes! 

Our first stop was to buy a 64 ounce fish bowl filled with rum punch.  There were a lot of places selling these and they were all the same price at $10 for the original bowl, and $7 if you wanted a refill.  It wasn’t as tasty as the drink from Pat O’Brien’s, but I guess you get what you pay for! Haha

Originally, we planned to go to a sit down restaurant for a Louisiana-type of dish, but we were tired and just wanted to get something quick for dinner.  It didn’t take much thought to decide to return to Crescent City Pizza Works for another delicious slice of funky pizza.  As tempting as it was to get the same BBQ pork slice that I had last night, I decided to try something new and opted for the “It’s Easy Being Green” slice with pesto, green tomatoes, and mozzarella cheese.  I tried putting my hand in the photo for a reference to the size of the slice…

Funny enough, there is actually a second slice of pizza below this one.  They said they burned the original slice, or it was too crispy, or something like that, and they gave us a second slice to replace it.  We both like our pizza extra crispy so we had no complaints about the original slice, but there was no chance we’d let either slice go to waste and DH helped me finish the second slice.

After dinner, we walked around a little more and listened to some of the street performers.  This guy was very talented at playing his violin.

By 8pm, we were both really tired and decided to head back to Canal Street to catch the bus back to the AirBNB to pack up for Embarkation Day tomorrow!

Step Tracker Daily Total:  18,561 steps; 7.7 miles; 4 flights of stairs