Tuesday, July 2, 2019 ~ Tower Bridge, Borough Market, and flying from London to New York

Reality set in when we woke up this morning and realized our time in London was coming to an end.  Luckily, our flight wasn’t until 5pm, so we had a few hours left to play tourist before heading to the airport.  We ate a quick breakfast downstairs in the hotel, then went back to the room to finish packing our luggage (which was quite a fiasco considering the tiny size our hotel room!).  I spoke to the receptionist about checking out of the hotel while DH carried everything down to the lobby so they could hold our bags. 

I had a few ideas of things we could do for our last few hours in London.  We could have gone to Abbey Road to take photos of the famous crosswalk from the Beatles album, or gone shopping at Harrods, or explored Camden Market.  In the end, we decided to go back down to Tower Bridge because we had yet to take a good photo with the bridge and we wanted to walk across it.  By now, we had taken the Tube to the Tower Hill station several times, so at least it was familiar and we knew where to go!

As we approached the Tower of London, we could see that the gates were open and we could access the walkway along the Thames River.  This was where we tried to go the other night but couldn’t get there because the gate was closed.

This was as close as we got to entering the Tower of London… We peaked inside the gates as we walked along the sidewalk.  I’m sure there’s plenty more to see inside those stone walls, but that will have to wait until a future visit to London!

The puffy white clouds made for a beautiful backdrop!  After a heat wave over the weekend, the temperatures were in the low 70’s this morning, so it was the perfect weather for a little walk around the city.

I love how this photo came out, with the sun shining bright against the towers, the red doube-decker bus driving across the bridge, and the Shard sticking out in the background.

We doubled back to find a staircase leading up onto the bridge so we could walk across it.

The sidewalk juts out around the towers and there are some displays about the history of the bridge, so we took a few minutes to read them.  Sorry, no photos of that! 

Once we reached the south side of the Thames, we walked west through the neighborhood in search of a supermarket.  We wanted to buy some candy to bring back to our families as souvenirs, and needed to save that task for today or it would have melted in our hotel room!  We found a small local market right on the corner which sold sampler packs of 6 or 7 varieties of Cadbury chocolate bars.  They were like Halloween candy, with individual mini bite-sized pieces of candies we had never seen before in the States, so that was perfect!  We bought several boxes for our relatives, then continued walking around Southwark. 

Potters Fields Park with City Hall peaking out in the background.

I liked the fencing outside the park.

I just could not get enough of these pubs!  And even better when another major monument is showing behind it!!

This long piece of concrete was actually a water feature but it’s hard to see the water trickling down in the photo.  Either way, it said exactly what I was wanting in that moment… more London!

I realized we were close by Borough Market, so we walked over there to check it out.  We weren’t hungry since we only ate breakfast an hour earlier, but it was still fun to look around at the various vendors.

Around 11:30am, we decided we’d done enough walking and made our way back to the London Bridge station to head back to the hotel to retrieve our luggage.  I still cannot get over how clean it was in the Underground stations and how wonderful it was to see working escalators at every entrance/exit!

The location of Central Hotel was extremely convenient for when we had to travel with our luggage.  We collected our bags from the lobby, walked a half block up to St. Pancras station, and that it was it!  Super easy!  They have a tourist information office at the station so I went in to ask about returning our Oyster Cards while DH waited in the hallway with our bags.  From what I could find online before the trip, I was under the impression that you cannot return your Oyster Card to get a refund of the £5 deposit if you still have time left on a Travel Card.  The Travel Card was for 7 days, but today was only our 6th day in London, I didn’t think we could get back our deposit but it was worth taking a moment to speak with an agent and find out for sure.  In the end, I’m glad I did that because it was no problem at all to get a refund for our 2 Oyster Cards!  Of course, you are welcome to keep your card as a souvenir or for future visits to London, but who knows when we’ll be back so it made more sense to just take the refund since we could get it.

Our next mission was to purchase tickets to Gatwick Airport.  That journey would not have been covered by our Travel Card, so we opted to buy paper tickets from the machine as opposed to loading more money onto the Oyster Card to cover the cost of that journey.  There is a specific train called the Gatwick Express which runs nonstop between the airport and Victoria Station, but since we were not staying on that side of the city, it did not make sense for us.  Instead, we needed to take the Thameslink train from St. Pancras Station.  The train would make a few stops before reaching Gatwick, and it would take us about an hour to get there, but we could stay on the same train for the entire journey so that made the most sense when traveling with lots of luggage.  The ride cost about £12 per person, and it was easy to follow the directions on the ticket machines and pay with a credit card. 

We asked an agent where to board the Thameslink and he directed us all the way down to the far end of St. Pancras Station.  Once there, it was very clearly labeled and we looked on the electronic schedule boards for the when the next train would arrive.  The trains run about every 15 minutes, but we were lucky and only had to wait about 2 minutes for the next train to arrive.  When we climbed on board, there was a luggage rack right there near the doors and there were plenty of open seats.  The whole process could not be any easier!  It was now around 1pm, so it was not peak rush hour, and the train car was never more than half-way full (although I think they did run out of space in our luggage rack towards the end of the journey!). 

Exiting the train at Gatwick, we followed signs up the escalator to enter the South Terminal, and the Norwegian Air check in counter was the first one when we walked through the doors!  The separate line for people with premium seats had one couple speaking with the agent at the counter, so we waited in line for maybe 3 minutes.  The agent did ask to weigh our backpacks, so that was different from what we experienced in California, but it wasn’t an issue because both bags were under the 10kg limit.  She checked our 3 rolling bags (which were all under the 20kg limit), and gave us passes to access the lounge inside the terminal.

There was hardly anyone in line for the priority line at security, and before we knew it, we were walking through the terminal in search of the lounge.  It was located down a hallway off to the side in the upper level of the terminal, but there were plenty of signs pointing us in the right direction so it was easy to find.  We handed over our passes at the reception desk and were pleased to see it was much less crowded than the lounge at Oakland’s airport!  We found some chairs near the windows, and took turns exploring the options of snacks and drinks.  We skipped lunch today, anticipating a spread similar to what we had in Oakland, but sadly, we weren’t so lucky this time around.  They had a small platter of fresh veggies and hummus, coleslaw, a few bland dry cakes, and couple of hot dishes with baked beans and potatoes that looked completely unappetizing.  They did have fresh popcorn and a bunch of flavored salts you could add to the bag, but the popcorn was burnt both times they brought out fresh bags.

I guess I can’t really complain because it was free!  The drinks selection was much more impressive, with a self-serve station for beer and cider on tap, wine, and an assortment of hard liquors and mixers.  DH was thrilled that he could make his own drink and not be throttled by a bartender like in Oakland, and I just stuck with a glass of wine.

We spent about an hour and a half in the lounge, helping ourselves to refills of our drinks.  Gatwick does not announce the departure gate until it is nearly time to board the plane, but luckily, there was an electronic screen in the lounge where we could find out our gate once it was announced.  After we left the lounge, we got our first glimpse at the Gatwick terminal.  It looked like a shopping mall!  There were lots of stores and food vendors, with tables and benches and lots of places to sit, but it felt very chaotic because it wasn’t organized by gate like most airports I’ve been to.  This really made me appreciate having access to the lounge, and I would consider paying for the passes out of pocket if flying during a busy time of day, just to avoid the craziness in this huge waiting room.  I guess it makes sense that it was so busy in there, considering many people arrived early for their international flights, but then had a lot of time to spare before learning their gate number so they have to wait in this communal space.  It looked very stressful and not relaxing at all!

It took us about 15 minutes to walk through the waiting area, down an escalator, then through a series of corridors, before we finally reached our gate.  DH appreciated seeing lots of people wearing Yankees t-shirts from the London Series games, which made sense considering we were flying back to New York!  Just like in Oakland, Norwegian starts boarding their planes over an hour before departure, and we were among the first on the plane because of our premium seats.

Our flight attendant served glasses of water and juice, and passed out ear buds for the in-flight entertainment system.  Soon enough, it was time to take off for our 8-hour flight across the pond.

The giant windows on this plane allow for some beautiful photos!  Based on this view of grass and trees lining the runways, you’d never know this airport is located so close to one of the world’s biggest cities!

I had fun playing with the interactive screen.  If you touched the white location markers, it gave you information about that city.

DH and I synced up our TVs to watch Deadpool together.  After using the audio guides in Paris and London, we got really good at counting to 3, then hitting play or stop at the same time so we’d stay synced up to the same spot.

About an hour into the flight, they served our first meal, with a choice of chicken or beef.  I opted for the beef… it was a steak with noodles, but I could barely eat it because the steak was several notches above well done, and the noodles and veggies were very spicy.  I just ate the roll the salad, and the cake for dessert and that was enough for me.

I spent most of the flight watching movies on the TVs, and drifting in and out of sleep.  I very rarely sleep even a few minutes on planes, so I must have been very tired from 12 days of walking over 20,000 steps a day!  The 8-hour flight passed quickly, and soon enough, they were serving our second meal, about an hour and a half before landing.  This time, we did not get an option… it was chicken and prosciutto over a small salad, with a roll, cheese, and a candy bar for dessert.  Again, this wasn’t 5-star dining, but at least it was edible!

Our flight was making great time and the pilot announced that we would be landing 30 minutes early.  This made for a beautiful approach into New York and JFK Airport with the sun setting over the city.

If you look closely at the horizon, you can see the Manhattan skyline!

I should have known not to be excited that we were landing early.  Sure enough, a minute after we landed, the pilot announced that we were too early and there was still a plane in our gate.  The details of what happened next are a bit fuzzy, partly because it happened several months ago, but mostly because it was now after midnight London time and I was too tired to follow the specifics.  I think there was a problem with the plane in our original gate, so they had us taxi out to some distant point in the airport to wait for a new gate.  It took over an hour before we finally did get a gate assigned to us.  Meanwhile, I had called my parents to let them know we landed and they should pick us up, then I had to call back to say never mind, we don’t have a gate and don’t know when we can get off the plane.  At some point, my phone stopped working!  Several people in seats near us had the same problem and we realized it must be something to do with the metal construction of the airplane and it was blocking our signals, so I had no way to communicate with my parents!  The pilot kept coming on the PA system to say he was not happy with how JFK airport was handling this situation and he apologized many times that we were being held captive on this plane.  The one positive, at least for DH and myself, was we were sitting comfortably in our premium seats during this whole ordeal.  When the flight attendants came around to collect the blankets 20 minutes before landing, I asked if I could hold onto mine until it was time to get off the plane because I was cold and it was so comfy to snuggle up underneath the blanket, so I was very happy to still have that blanket for this extra hour on the plane. 

When we finally did get a gate, it was complete mayhem with everyone pushing to get off the plane ASAP.  The flight attendants held back the people sitting in coach so the people in the premium seats could exit first, so of course, the people in coach were upset about that and started yelling at the flight attendants.  After exiting the plane, we went through immigration using the computer kiosks, then spoke with an agent inside the booth for all of 10 seconds so he could stamp our passports, and we were on our way to collect our luggage.  The downside to getting off the plane first is that JFK is a huge airport so we got to the luggage carrousel long before our luggage did!  I called my parents while DH waited for our bags.  I thought another perk of the premium seats was that our luggage would be first off the plane, but that did not happen.  It is possible that that was not a perk, I’m not sure.  Our bags came out in the third batch of bags, and we met my dad outside.  By the time we got back to my parents house, it was close to 3am London time and we were completely exhausted!  After a quick hello to my mom, we went straight upstairs to the guestroom and fell asleep moments later.

I won’t go into the details of my time in New York since that has nothing to do with this review.  We celebrated my parents’ 40th wedding anniversary, we went to the beach, and on Wednesday night, we went to Citifield with DH’s cousins for a Subway Series game of the Mets vs. Yankees. That was one of my arguments against seeing the London Series… knowing we would see the Yankees play 3 days later in New York!

On Sunday, we packed everything up, my parents took us to the airport, and we flew back to San Jose on JetBlue. 

That concludes my review of our trip to Paris and London.  Overall, we had a wonderful time and really made the most of our limited days in each city.  Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for reading!

Fitbit Daily Summary for Tuesday 7/2/19… Steps: 13,900,  Miles: 6.72,  Flights of Stairs: 13 (not too shabby considering we spent a third of the day on an airplane!)

Monday, July 1, 2019 ~ Windsor Castle, Bath, and Stonehenge

Today was our last full day in Europe so I planned something special as our grand finale.  Very early on in my research, I discovered a full day (over 12 hours!!!) bus tour that takes you to Windsor Castle, Bath, and Stonehenge, and we were both immediately excited about this opportunity.  Several different companies offer this tour, but we booked with Viator because they were offering a 10% off discount for Black Friday.  Of course, Viator is just a middle man as a booking agent so they would not be operating the actual tour.  When I got our confirmation email, it said the tour was with Evan Evans Tours, so that was fine with me because they got good reviews on Trip Advisor.  There were several ways to book this tour, but we opted to book with all of our entrance fees included, because why would we NOT do that?!  It would be a pretty boring tour to just take a bus to each of the towns but not enter the main attractions!  We could cancel for free up to 2 days in advance, so that was reassuring although we did not plan to cancel.  As busy of a day as I knew this would be, the idea of spending some time sitting on a bus sounded wonderful after 10 straight days of walking all over Paris and London!

The only down side to this tour was that we had to meet at the Victoria Coach Station by 7:30am!  Holy moley that was crazy early!!  It would take us about 30 minutes to get there from our hotel, so we needed to leave by 7am at the latest.  Our hotel did not open the breakfast room until 7am so that meant we were on our own to find breakfast today.  I set the alarm clock for zero-dark-thirty so we could get ready and leave the hotel by 6:45am.  We had already scouted out a Costa Coffee on the corner of our street so we stopped in there to pick up some croissants for breakfast.  We also bought some pre-packaged sandwiches to eat on the bus for lunch.  The tour description said there was no designated lunch break and we did not want to waste our precious time at the attractions with searching for a place to buy lunch, so it worked out perfectly to pick up a few sandwiches here.

We hopped on the blue Victoria line to take the Tube to the Victoria Station.  Unfortunately, what we did not realize was that the “Victoria Station” and the “Victoria Coach Station” are two different places!  They are about a 10 minute walk apart, but it took us longer than that because we had to keep asking people where to go.  I had assumed it was all in the same building, but I guess it was no different than in Manhattan when you arrive by train into Penn Station and need to walk to Port Authority to catch a bus.  Silly me!

Anyway, after a stressful and confusing few minutes of fast-paced walking, we finally found the Victoria Coach Station.  The directions said to meet at Gates 1 to 5, so of course, when we entered the building, there was a sign pointing to the left towards Gates 0 and 1, and towards the right for Gates 2 to 5.  Awesome.  We went to the left, assuming both directions would meet in the middle at the end of the hall, and that turned out to be correct.  We spotted a big sign for Evan Evans Tours and there was a lady with a clip board checking other people in.  There were already over one hundred people standing around in this area, so I can only imagine how early they had arrived!  We found our names on the check list and the lady gave us wrist bands and said to stand in line as the buses were already boarding. 

We got at the end of a very long line, so I immediately realized there must be multiple coach buses doing our same itinerary.  Sure enough, as we approached the front of the line, there were still tons of people in line behind us.  The first bus must have been close to full by now, and I did not want to be the last to board because we’d get the worst seats at the back of the bus, or possibly even be split up and not get to sit together.  No thanks!  When it was our turn to board, I asked if that bus was nearly full, and the lady said yes, that we were the last two people on that bus.  I asked if it was possible to go on the next bus instead, and she pointed me towards a second line of 8 other people who must have made the same request!  Haha!  Clearly I was not the only person with that concern!  After that, the person in charge came over to see what was happening and she was very upset that they couldn’t find people willing to take the last 2 seats on the first bus so she basically forced the next people in line to get on that bus without giving them the option of refusing.  I felt bad for them, but I was happy that we were now one of the first people to board the second bus and we could have our pick of seats.

As we boarded the bus, our guide handed us each a portable audio device called a Vox Box and some headphones.  I wish I had known we would be using this device because the ear buds were very uncomfortable for me and I would have brought my own pair, but since I didn’t know, my pair was back in the hotel.  We found seats towards the front of the bus and got settled in.  There was a storage rack above the seats to stash our bags, and the seats were plush and well padded, but there was no toilet on the bus.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen a coach bus in this style without a toilet at the back, so that was surprising to me.  It didn’t take long for all 50 people to board the bus, and then we left the station.  Each bus left as it filled up, so we knew we would be the second bus to arrive at Windsor Castle. 

Our tour guide for today was Andy, and the bus driver was Russell.  Andy used a microphone on the bus to explain the plan for our day, and a bit of history and background information.  It took about an hour to drive to Windsor Castle in rush hour traffic, and Andy spoke for that entire time!  We arrived at about 8:30am, and there was only one other bus in the parking lot!  That was probably the first Evan Evans bus to depart, so it paid off that our tour left Central London so early in the morning!  As Andy led us from the parking lot, we could see the Castle up in the distance.

On the way, Andy pointed out this portrait of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle made entirely out of Legos!  How cool is that?!  It was created for their royal wedding which was held here in 2018, and remains on display at the Windsor train station.

We walked through the train station and wound our way through several side streets until we saw this straight ahead of us:

Andy explained that he was going to let us walk around Windsor Castle on our own and that we would need to find our own way back to the bus by 11:30am, so he pointed out this horse statue on the corner as a good landmark to find the right side street back towards the bus parking lot.

He continued to walk through several more side streets as we approached the Castle entrance.  I snapped this photo while we were walking and it turned out to be one of my favorite photos of the entire trip!  At the far end of the street, you can see the gate where we would eventually exit Windsor Castle at the end of our time there.

Finally, we walked up along the side of a stone wall and Andy told us to line up here to wait to enter the Castle.  They don’t open until 9:30am so we were very early and would have a long wait here in this spot.  Andy filled the time and kept us entertained with more stories about British history.  This was one of the times when we made use of the Vox Box so we could hear him clearly, and you can see his Vox Box hanging from his neck.

This is Andy…

I couldn’t resist the opportunity for a photo with the outer gates when no other people were around!

It was kind of fun that we could keep listening to Andy while we took this photo!  Notice the ear buds in our ears and the box hanging around our necks…

In this time, Andy explained that if we wanted to watch the Changing of the Guards, the best place to do it was OUTSIDE of the castle grounds, back near that blue horse statue.  He said that they close off the exit gate when the guards are marching through, and if you get stuck inside the castle at that time, you likely will not be able to get back to the bus in time for our 11:30 time of departure.  He said we should exit through that gate by 10:50am and that we could line up along the sidewalk outside of the castle to watch the guards march by, but we could not watch the actual changing of the guards because then we would be too late to catch the bus.

While we were standing there, we noticed hundreds of other tour groups arriving in the area and getting on line behind us.  The line snaked all the way down the street and around the corner, so it was great knowing we were at the front of the line, even if it meant we were twiddling our thumbs in that spot for about an hour before the Castle opened!  At least once we were allowed to enter, we would be first to go through security and stay ahead of the crowds inside the Castle.  The people at the end of that line would be waiting for a very long time to enter the Castle and would ultimately have less time to spend there.  Evan Evans Tours for the win!

Finally, at 9:30am, they allowed us to enter a big holding room where we lined up again as Andy handed out tickets to each of us.  We then showed these tickets to the security agent as we walked through the metal detector and our bags passed through the x-ray machine.  Andy had warned us to leave any questionable possessions on the bus so we wouldn’t have a hold up at the security check.  After that, Andy left us to explore on our own.  When I booked this tour, I had assumed our guide would escort us around the grounds and explain what we were seeing, but that was not the case.  We could have purchased audioguides, but by now, it was 9:45am, so we only had one hour to see everything before needing to exit for the Changing of the Guards.  We didn’t think we’d have enough time to listen to the guide and go at that slower pace if we wanted to see everything, so we opted to just walk around and see what we could see.  As it turned out, one hour was exactly the perfect amount of time for us to move through the grounds at a quick pace and get to explore St. George’s Chapel and the State Apartments.  It probably helped speed us along that we were not permitted to take photos inside (although I did accidentally take one or two before I realized no photos were allowed!  Oops!).

Once past security, we followed the path along the outer perimeter of the property.

When we got to this fork in the road, we could either continue towards St. George’s Chapel (on the right of this photo), or go down to the State Apartments.  Andy had said he recommends spending more time at the Chapel because most people don’t save enough time to see this place and he thinks it is more interesting than the Apartments, so we went there first.

The side of St. George’s Chapel

When you enter, there are ropes to prevent you from walking into the middle of the chapel, and you have to walk along a specific path that winds all around the chapel.  First you walk along the side towards the back of the room…

From the back of the chapel, you have a beautiful view of the entire room…

At that point, I saw the sign which said no photos allowed, so I had to stop taking pictures.  Bummer! 

This chapel was the site of many royal funerals, and many of them are buried here so you can walk around and view their coffins.  It caught me off guard at how moved I was when I saw the coffins of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth I in their own special room in the chapel.  I really wasn’t expecting that!  Andy was right that this chapel is worth spending some time to explore, but sadly, we had to keep moving if we wanted to see the State Apartments.

As we walked between the two buildings, we caught a great view between the trees, overlooking the town and countryside.

I snapped this one last photo before walking through that door to enter the State Apartments, where once again, no photos were allowed inside.

We followed the marked path through a series of rooms used by former Kings and Queens.  Although Windsor Castle is her primary residence, the rooms on our self-guided tour are not used by Queen Elizabeth II.  I suppose that is not too surprising though since the Queen lives here instead of in Buckingham Palace to keep her privacy, so she probably doesn’t want a bunch of tourists traipsing through her bedroom! 

It took us about 20 minutes to walk through the section of the State Apartments open to tourists.  When we exited, we were in this interior courtyard which was perfect for a photo opportunity!

It was getting close to 10:50am so we made our way back out to the exit as Andy had instructed.  It was now much more crowded than when we walked through earlier this morning.

We weren’t exactly sure how long it would take to exit out to that street intersection, but it turned out that as soon as we passed through the opening at the base of that hill, we were back in front of the gate where we took that photo while we were waiting to enter the castle.  We just had to walk a short distance downhill and we couldn’t miss the place we needed to go because there were already a ton of people lining the streets and waiting for the guards to march by. 

Right on time at 10:52am, we heard and saw the marching band coming up the street!

I just love those bearskin hats!

It’s so impressive how well they march perfectly in step…

In less than 2 minutes, the whole thing was over.  The guards continued marching towards the castle and that was that!  We still had over 30 minutes until we had to meet back at the bus, so we walked around the town for a few minutes, then started walking back towards the parking lot.  On the way, we passed a store called EAT which sold to-go sandwiches.  Both of us were very hungry by this time and we realized that the sandwiches we bought this morning would not be enough food to fill us up until 7:30pm when the tour ended so we stopped to buy two more sandwiches for a mid-morning snack and we saved our original sandwiches for later in the day.  Andy recommended that we use the restrooms in the train station before returning to the bus, so we did that, then walked the rest of the way to the parking lot.  We arrived at 11:25am and nearly everyone else on our bus was already back in their seats!  We had great luck all day with the people on our bus all arriving promptly for our departure time.  I always hear horror stories about these big bus tours where you waste half your day waiting for that one couple who can’t seem to get back to the bus on time.  We had no such issues today and pulled out of the Windsor Castle parking lot at exactly 11:30am!

Once we got going, Andy explained that we would need about 2 hours to get to Bath.  He spent some of that time walking through the bus and speaking to each couple in case we had any questions.  I took this opportunity to ask something that I had been wondering all week but felt kind of silly about asking.  I asked Andy about what will happen to the British National Anthem after the Queen is no longer the Queen.  The song is “G-d Save the Queen” so what will they do when Prince Charles or Prince William takes the throne?  He said they will change the lyrics to “G-d Save the King”!  Simple enough, but she has been the Queen my whole life so I wasn’t sure how it would be handled when there is a King!  Now I know 🙂

We spent the rest of the 2 hours just relaxing on the bus.  The bus had strong air conditioning, which was much appreciated on this hot summer day, and there were USB charging ports at each seat so we could keep our phones charged.  There wasn’t much to look at during our journey… just a lot of grass and trees!

As we got closer to Bath, we spotted some animals grazing in the pasture.  I’m not sure if they were sheep or goats.

I loved how the bushes and trees made the countryside look like a patchwork quilt!

Exactly 2 hours after leaving Windsor, we pulled up to a traffic circle in a quaint town, and Russell parked the bus.  Andy told us all to get off the bus because Russell could not stay here, but that he would return to this spot at 3pm to pick us up.  That gave us just an hour and a half to explore Bath, but first we had to follow Andy to the main attraction: The Roman Baths.  Some people on our tour did not pay for admission here, so they could spend the full 90 minutes exploring the town of Bath.  The rest of us followed Andy down the street to a plaza in front of the Bath Abbey, and we were told to wait here until we could enter the baths.

The Roman Baths date back to around 40AD when the Romans invaded Britain and discovered the natural hot springs in this region.  They channeled the hot mineral water through lead pipes to create a series of baths, heated steam rooms, and plunge pools.  They spent the next 300 years developing this complex with a large bathhouse, a religious temple, a several public pools.  When the Romans left in 410AD, the baths were abandoned until they were rediscovered in the late 1800s and could be restored to the tourist site we know today.

It was very busy at this time, with 6 sections of corrals for 6 tour buses.  One by one, the sections were allowed to enter the baths, so I guess they were trying to regulate traffic to avoid overcrowding.  We finally got to enter at 2pm, so I wasn’t thrilled that we wasted one third of our precious time here with just waiting in line.  When we entered, an agent explained that we must not touch the water in the baths in any way because there is a bacteria in the water which can be very harmful.  That sounded kind of gross, so no worries, I’ll keep a safe distance away from the water!  The audioguides are included with the cost of your admission, so we took them and started walking through the complex.  Andy had said you can speed through in 20 minutes, or you can linger for up to an hour (but then you would miss the bus!), so we tried to keep a good pace to leave us some time to explore the town of Bath when we exited.

We listened to about half of the audioguide numbers because we just didn’t have the time or patience to listen to everything.  There is a ton of history here, but it was very crowded so we didn’t feel the need to linger very long.

This was the outer wall of the Temple Courtyard and a stone buttress to support the corner of the building over the Sacred Spring.

This display shows a sampling of the over 12,000 Roman coins found at the bottom of the Sacred Spring.

This is the spring overflow which carries surplus water from the hot spring to the original Roman drain, and on to the River Avon back near the traffic circle where we got off the bus.

We continued exploring the museum for a few more minutes until we found our way outside to the Great Bath in the main courtyard.  There is algae in the water which makes it look green and murky, so it wasn’t an issue to comply with the rule to not touch the water because it was anything but inviting!

This was one of the smaller pools inside the complex, and they had a video projected on the far wall to depict people bathing in the pools.

This circular bath was filled with coins settled along the bottom

A little blurry, but you get the idea…

We took one last peek overlooking another pool before walking up the stairs to exit the baths.

On the way out, we stopped to use the very clean restrooms, then bypassed the souvenir shop to exit back out onto one of the back alleys in the town of Bath.

It was now 2:30pm, so we spent 30 minutes exploring the Roman Baths.  Sure, it would have been nice to spend more time here and to really scour each exhibit and listen to all of the audio guide recordings, but we knew that was not possible.  In order to hit these 3 major attractions in one day, we knew that we were signing up for short glimpses at each place and we were okay with that.  I definitely wanted some time to explore the town of Bath, however brief that would be. 

We walked passed a series of narrow streets and pedestrian alleys, lined with shops and cafes.

Turning around the corner, we had a beautiful view of the medieval gothic Bath Abbey.

At this point, DH was hungry and wanted to find somewhere to buy a snack.  We had about 20 minutes to go until we needed to be on the bus so we split up and he walked around the town looking for food while I walked out towards the Parade Gardens overlooking the River Avon to get some photos.

This is the Pulteney Weir, a dam built in the 1600’s to prevent flooding in the town of Bath, which was later updated in the 1970’s to create this V-shaped design.  In the background, you can see the Pulteney Bridge which was built in the late 1700’s to cross the River Avon and eliminate the need for a ferry.

I was so charmed by this little town, with something beautiful to see in every direction.

The spire peeking out in the background is from St John the Evangelist’s Church, a Victorian Roman Catholic church that was badly damaged in WWII.

As I returned to the traffic circle, I could see several tour buses lined up so I knew I’d better hurry up. 

When I got back to the intersection where Russell dropped us off, I saw DH working his way through a fresh Belgian waffle topped with nutella.  He bought it from The Real Italian Ice Cream Company, and he was nice enough to save me a bite.  Wow, it was delicious!  We got back on the bus along with the last few people on our tour, and the bus pulled away at exactly 3pm.

Andy told us it would take one hour to get to our final stop at Stonehenge.  He handed out special maps and explained how we could use the laser pointer on the tip of our Vox Boxes to scan each number on the map and listen to the history of Stonehenge.  I have never seen anything like this before, but it was really easy to use.  Andy recommended that we spend our time on the bus listening to all of the audio files so that we could focus our time at Stonehenge actually seeing the stones and taking photos instead of trying to listen to the audio guide in our limited time out there.

We pulled into the parking lot at exactly 4pm.  It’s amazing how all of our stops today were such precise distances away (exactly 1 hour from London to Windsor, 2 hours from Windsor to Bath, and now exactly 1 hour from Bath to Stonehenge!)  Andy said our bus would be departing at 5:20pm to return to London, and he pointed us down a path towards the visitor center where we could board a shuttle to drive us out to the stones.  There is a trail if you choose to walk out to the stones, but that would take 30 minutes so we did not have enough time to do that (nor did we really want to walk when there was the option of taking a 5-minute bus ride haha).  There were already several people from other tour buses waiting in line to take the shuttle, so we couldn’t fit on the first one to arrive.  Luckily, another shuttle pulled up a minute later.  Along the way, you have views out over the vast countryside, with nothing but grass and trees as far as the eye can see.

When you exit the shuttle, it is very obvious where to go next.  There is a long path through the grass leading up to and around the stones.  By now, it was late in the afternoon, and there were hundreds of other tourists here with us, but since the path encircling the stones is so large, it never really felt crowded.

You can see lots of people crowded on the right side of this photo.  You are not permitted to walk directly up to the stones, and you must stay on the marked path which forms a circle around the entire perimeter.  The spot where all those people are standing is the closest point to the stones.  We opted to walk clockwise around the stones so we would end our loop at that spot as a grand finale.

This was such a huge bucket list moment for us.  We both found it so fascinating to learn the history of Stonehenge and how it was possibly used as a burial ground.  Archeologists believe this monument dates back to 3000BC.  It just seems so incredible to imagine that these stones have stood in this position for 5000 years!  We took our time walking around the perimeter and pondering how on earth those people carried these enormous stones without using a wheel. 

This arrow lines up to the path of the sun on December 21 as it sets precisely between the opening between the stones on the Winter Solstice.  There is a similar view directly across the stones where the sun lines up on June 21 for the Summer Solstice.  We were here just 10 days after the Summer Solstice, but that was actually a good thing because Stonehenge is closed to tours on that day!

We spent about half an hour walking around the stones and taking it all in.  Unlike Windsor Castle and Bath, I thought that was the perfect amount of time to spend at Stonehenge and I was ready to head back at that point.  It was now 4:45pm, so we walked back to the shuttle bus pick up location and were met by a huge line of people!  Oh my!  All of those people who had been crowded around the stones were now all leaving at the exact same time as us.  Bus after bus arrived and we were still no where near the front of the line.  I think we waited for 4 or 5 buses until we could finally board, so that took much more time than we anticipated.  We knew it would be a long bus ride back to London so we wanted a few minutes to use the restrooms, but by the time we got back to the visitor center, it was already 5:10pm.  Of course, you must walk through the souvenir shop upon exiting the shuttle, and there were no signs pointing us towards the restrooms.  We walked as quickly as possible around the shop to the exit, found an employee and asked where we could find the restrooms as precious minutes ticked away. 

Mission accomplished, we then had to find our way back out to the coach bus parking lot, and all the way to the back of the lot where our bus was parked.  We got back to the bus at 5:25pm, just as Andy was getting ready to close the doors!  Whew!  It was such a relief that he waited for us, and I have a feeling we weren’t the only ones having trouble getting back to the bus on time!  Unfortunately, we waited until 5:30pm and were still missing two people.  Andy arranged to send those people back on one of the other Evan Evans buses who were due to depart a little later.  I can only imagine how stressful it would be for that couple when they arrived back at our bus’s parking spot and the bus was gone, with Andy and Russell no where in sight!  Hopefully the guide from the other bus had a way to identify this couple, and hopefully they didn’t leave any of their belongings on our bus. 

As we left Stonehenge, Andy said we would have a 2-hour drive back to London.  After such a long day of touring, it was nice to have this extended rest break, seated comfortably on an air conditioned bus.  As we were sitting near the front of the bus, we overheard Andy take a phone call shortly into the trip from the other tour guide who said he found the couple that missed our bus and they were all set to return on his bus instead. 

We hit a lot of traffic as we were getting closer to London, so Andy offered to make an extra stop in South Kensington near the Gloucester Road tube station.  We would be driving passed there on our way to the Victoria Coach Station so it was not out of the way, and it would allow people staying on the west side of the city to get back to their hotels that much sooner.  At first, we ignored his offer, but the more I thought about it, I realized we should take advantage of the opportunity.  We didn’t have anything pre-planned to do tonight, so if we hopped off the bus at the first stop, we would be just a few blocks from Hyde Park and Kensington Palace.  I had considered going there on Tuesday morning before our flight home, but the more I thought about it, I realized it made more sense to check those places off the to-do list tonight while we were already so close by, and then we could do something else tomorrow.

Russell stopped the bus on a street corner across from the Gloucester Road tube station at 7:30pm.  We had officially spent 6 hours on that bus today, but amazingly, it did not feel as overwhelming as it sounds.  We really enjoyed our day with Evan Evans Tours.  Yes, we felt rushed in Windsor and in Bath.  Yes, we wished we could spend more time at each of the attractions.  Yes, we spent the same amount of time on that bus as we did off the bus exploring each destination.  But we knew what we were signing up for when we booked this tour, and we knew that if we wanted to see Windsor Castle, Bath, and Stonehenge in one day, then it would make for a very long day with only a limited glimpse at each of those places.  With that in mind, we checked off a few more places on our bucket list and we learned a lot about the history of this region.

With the help of Google Maps, we walked up towards Hyde Park.  This was a really pretty section of London and I wished we had more time to explore, but it was late, we were hungry, and we wanted to get to Kensington Palace before dark which meant dinner had to wait.  Hyde Park is huge, but we only had time to cut through a small section on the western edge. 

As we approached Kensington Palace, we could see lots of signs hanging on the exterior fence.  As it turned out, we were here on July 1, which was Princess Diana’s birthday, so there was a tribute set up for her on the fence.

By now, it was nearly 8pm and the palace had already closed for the day.  We weren’t planning to go inside anyway, but it would have been nice to walk around the grounds.  Unfortunately, the gates were locked and this was as close as we could get.

We were starving, so we didn’t stay long and left the park in search of somewhere to eat dinner.  I had seen photos of a pub nearby here on one of my social media feeds and wanted to eat dinner there.  As the crow flies, it seemed like it was very close by, but the way the roads go, we had to walk out of our way out to a main road, then double back in towards the pub.  We didn’t know the best way to exit the park, so we just started walking west away from Kensington Palace.  That brought us out to a beautiful tree-lined street called Kensington Palace Gardens.  This street is home to about 20 embassies for countries like Italy, France, Nepal, Lebanon, and Russia.  It felt like walking around Epcot Center in Disneyworld!  Country after country lined up next to each other, and it was fun to try to guess what country was coming up next!  That was an unexpected but fun way to pass the time as we walked towards dinner.

After nearly a mile of walking, we approached The Churchill Arms pub and I was immediately obsessed.  This building looked like something out of a fairy tale, with bright flowers covering the outer walls, and flags flying in the breeze on the roof.  There were tons of people standing outside, enjoying a pint while chatting with their friends.

We went inside, expecting to see what happened at most of the other pubs we visited this week… tons of people drinking outside, but no one eating dinner inside.  It was now 8:30pm on a Monday night, so you would think that was an off-peak time.  Nope!  It was sooooo crowded inside this pub and we didn’t see a single open table.  We walked through the whole pub to the back where there was a waiter with a clipboard for the waiting list and he said it would be a 30 minute wait to be seated.  It seemed like most people eating here were locals, so I found it kind of weird that it was so crowded this late on a work night… don’t these people have to go to work tomorrow morning??  By now, I was beyond starving and there was no way I could wait 30 minutes to be seated, plus even longer to get my food, so unfortunately, it wasn’t meant to be and we had to leave.  Reviews online say this place serves good thai food, but I’ll have to come back another time if I want to try it.

As we were walking towards Churchill Arms, I noticed another pub called Old Swan further up the street, so we doubled back to check it out.  It was kind of hard to change mentalities because I was looking forward to thai food for dinner and now we’d be eating British food… again… but I was way too hungry to start wandering around to find somewhere different.  Old Swan was about one-third full, so there were enough locals eating here that we figured it must serve tasty food, but not so crowded that we’d have to wait for a table. 

The bartender told us to sit wherever we wanted, and to come see her at the bar to place our food and drink orders.  I ordered a cider (of course!) and a steak and ale pie.  It was pretty good, but honestly, I was so hungry that I would have thought a pile of cement tasted good haha

We finished up dinner around 9:30pm and just headed back to the hotel for the night.  In theory, we could have gone out to another pub, or explored the neighborhood a little more, or even walked up to Notting Hill which was just a few blocks away, but we were tired and still needed to pack up our bags before checking out of the hotel tomorrow morning.  If you remember back to our first day in London, I mentioned that DH had a mission to visit as many pubs as possible.  The qualification for if the pub “counted” in our tally was if we each had one drink at the pub, so the grand total for our 5 days in London came out to 11 pubs!  Not too shabby!

Luckily, we were very close by the Notting Hill Gate Underground Station, so we hopped on the Tube to get back to the hotel.

Fitbit Daily Summary… Steps: 19,502,  Miles: 9.41,  Flights of Stairs: 13 (not bad for a day when we spent 6 hours on a bus!!)

Sunday, June 30, 2019 ~ Changing of the Guards Walking Tour, MLB London Series Game, Sky Garden at night

One of the things we definitely wanted to see in London was the changing of the guards.  When I started to research the logistics, tons of websites and guide books recommended arriving at Buckingham Palace several hours in advance for the hopes at finding a good spot to stand, but you would only have a view of a small portion of the ceremony and it sounded exhausting and boring to stand around in one spot for all that time for very little reward.  I came across a tour through Fun London Tours where they guide you around London to be at the right spot at the right time to see the various parts of the changing of the guards ceremony.  Here is the tour description from their website:

“This is the London walking tour which will ensure you are in the best position possible to see the extraordinary Changing the Guard ceremony while avoiding the crowds at the gates of Buckingham Palace. Rather than standing still for hours, we see various stages of the ceremony, including the inspection, Old Guard, New Guard, Palaces, and even march alongside the Guards and Ceremonial Bands!

Our tour guides have the experience, knowledge and humour to make sure you leave with an enviable set of pictures, an insight into what is going on, an anecdote or two, and most importantly, a memory which will last forever.

We are endorsed by http://www.changing-guard.com and so have the backing of the most knowledgeable people out there.  Sadly, a great number of people go to see this world famous ceremony and leave disappointed. They stand at the gates of Buckingham Palace and wait uncomfortably for the action to happen, but are unaware that they have missed the majority of the pomp, ceremony, music and marching that takes place elsewhere. And that is why a Fun London Guide is invaluable in getting you around.

If you like a fast paced tour, with plenty of action, excitement and fun, come on this walk. In order to stay ahead of the crowds we do have to move quickly at times – at one point we will even be marching alongside the band! We will also encounter at least one flight of steps so unfortunately it is the only one of our tours which is not suitable for people with walking difficulties.

Please note we will not stand near the gates of Buckingham Palace on this tour. It is unfortunately impractical to take a group there and wait for two or more hours packed in like sardines in a can, but we can guarantee the tour will be a far more enjoyable and informative experience!”

As it worked out, we were planning to go to Buckingham Palace to watch the ceremony on Sunday (it was the only morning we had free after booking our other tours!), so that meant we could take this tour on the day that also included the Change of the Lifeguard ceremony.  The tour cost £20 per person, which was a little pricey considering we usually take free tours, but we decided it was worth it to avoid wasting our very limited time and to ensure we would actually see part of the ceremony. 

My original plan was that we would go out to lunch after the tour, then go to Westminster Abbey for the 3pm Evensong Service.  Much like St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey charges a hefty admission fee if you want to go inside and tour the church.  The one way around this is to attend a service, which is free and open to the public.  I liked the idea of going to the 3pm Evensong Service because the service is only about an hour long and features talented choirs singing the prayers.  It gets wonderful reviews on Trip Advisor and seemed like a unique way to see the inside of this iconic church. 

That was our game plan until our full-day walking tour on Friday when DH learned about the MLB London Series baseball game.  He is a huge Yankees fan and he really wanted to go to one of the two games and see them play in London.  The first game was last night when we already had tickets for Les Mis, so he knew that if he was going to the game, it would have to be on Sunday.  I wasn’t thrilled with the idea of going to a baseball game instead of Westminster Abbey because we do see most of the Yankees games when they play the Giants or A’s in California, but we won’t have another opportunity to go inside Westminster Abbey.  After a lot of back and forth, DH decided to look online and if he could find tickets, we would go to the baseball game.  On Saturday night after we left Les Mis, DH went on the England Stub Hub site and he found 2 tickets for Sunday game!  So it was official, we were going to the Yankees vs. Red Sox game in London.  It’s a good thing we both had extra Yankess tshirts packed for the New York leg of our trip so we’d have something to wear to the game! Haha

We woke up bright and early on Sunday morning, had our usual breakfast downstairs at the hotel, then took the Tube to the Piccadilly Circus station.  When we exited the station, we saw a sight rarely seen by tourists… a completely deserted Piccadilly Circus!  It was 8:30am on a Sunday and there were only a handful of people walking around, most of whom turned out to be other people on our tour!

We were a little early so we sat on the steps of the fountain until 9am when a group of tour guides arrived.  Until then, we had noticed more and more people milling around the sidewalks, but we didn’t know if these people were all on our tour or if they just happened to be exploring Piccadilly Circus.  When the guides arrived, nearly 100 people all gathered together to check in for the tour!  Holy moly!  I thought we were only supposed to have a maximum of 25 people on the tour with us?!  It turned out that there were 4 guides and we would all be split up into smaller groups for the tour.  We were all going to be seeing the same things and we’d all be at the same places at the same time, but there would only be about 25 people listening to what each guide said.  That wasn’t exactly what I expected, so I was a bit skeptical at this point.  The lead guide called out each party individually and assigned them to one of the 4 guides.  We stood there waiting to hear our name, as we were watching the guides start introducing themselves to the people joining their group.  Finally, the lead guide called our name LAST out of all the people there!  My guess is she must have called us out in the reverse order of when we registered for the tour or something like that.  We were assigned to be with the guide named Jess, so we walked over to his group and kind of felt like we were intruding at that point because it had been about 15 minutes total since the first person’s name was called. 

One by one, each group left Piccadilly Circus to start the tour until we were the only group left.  Jess led us down Regent Street, and as soon as we passed Milo’s, I knew exactly where we were.  Sure enough, Jess stopped us near the Duke of York statue to tell us the same story and sing us the same song that we heard on our tour on Friday.  I guess that song is very popular with the tour guides in London because they don’t seem to mind a bit of humiliation as they sing it to us! 

As we walked across The Mall, we noticed it was closed to vehicular traffic.  Jess said they do that on certain Sundays so people can walk and ride their bikes.

We continued walking towards the Horse Guards Parade for the first ceremony of the tour.

You can see several groups of people around the ropes up ahead.  That was the other tour groups in our larger group since we were the last to arrive. 

Jess brought us over to an open section of the ropes and we lined up to wait for the horses to arrive.

A few minutes later, we saw the horses marching down the same path we had just walked, then they entered the middle of the ropes.  Jess explained that these were the new guards reporting for duty.

The horses marched around the perimeter and then lined up on the right side of the space.

And then they waited… and waited… and waited some more!

The old guards who had been on duty were supposed to come over this way, but for some reason, they were delayed.  Jess said this was EXTREMELY rare and he has never seen this happen before!  At some point, one of the guards went through the archway to see what was causing the hold up.

Finally, about 10 minutes late, the old guards marched out on their horses.

They lined up on the left side of the space, facing towards the new guards.

Once they were all lined up, Jess said we needed to move along to our next stop.  He said the guards would stay in this position and not move for about 20 minutes, so it’s not like we would be missing out on much by leaving early haha

Jess led us through a short cut through St. James’s Park.  Even though we had walked through this park already on our tour on Friday, we still appreciated seeing it again because the flowers looked lovely!

Once we reached The Mall, Jess told us to line up along the sidewalk near Marlborough Road.  He took this time to explain a bit more of the history behind these ceremonies, and then, since the guards seemed to be running behind, he took some more time to explain how the royal family gets their names.  These little tidbits of information were so interesting to learn about because it isn’t something I had thought about before.  There was much debate over whether Prince Charles will take over as King when his mother either passes away or retires from her responsibilities as Queen.  If he does become King, Jess said he can choose his regnal name from any of his names: Charles, Philip, Arthur, or George.  Another possibility is that they will skip over Prince Charles and name Prince William as the next king, but Jess suspected that was unlikely to happen and that Prince William would have to wait a bit longer before taking the throne.  I just found all of this stuff fascinating, and it was a good way to kill some time before these guys arrived…

These were the old guards that we just saw finish their shift back at the Horse Guards Parade, and they were bringing the horses back to the barracks.

About 5 minutes later, we heard the band marching towards The Mall from St. James’s Palace.  I was so excited to finally see those famous black fuzzy bearskin hats in person!

Now is when the fun part started… Earlier, Jess had warned us that right after we see the band turn onto The Mall, he would say “Go!”.  That was our cue to follow him on the sidewalk, marching in step with the marching band towards Buckingham Palace.  He had warned us that we would need to move quickly to keep up with the band, and he was not kidding!  I was shocked at how fast that band marched while playing their tunes.  It was somewhat crowded, with lots of people lined up along the sidewalk to watch the band, and even more people briskly marching up the sidewalk to keep up with the band.  Remember those 100 people on our tour?  We they were all right there with us on the sidewalk, plus several other tour companies too, so it was impossible to take a decent photo.  I held my camera up above the crowd, aimed in the general direction of the band, and clicked away.  This was the best I could get…

Notice all the other people doing exactly what I was doing?

It was mayhem!  And while all that was happening, we still had to keep track of Jess so we wouldn’t miss out on the rest of our tour!  We were practically running to keep up with him, but we could at least slow down a bit when he turned off into St. James’s Park again.

Our next stop was over on Birdcage Walk where we would see another band march out in front of the new guards for Buckingham Palace.  There were already a few people lined up along the fences here so we had to squeeze in to get a good view.

Here they come!

Their marching is lined up perfectly!

After that brief break, it was time to chase Jess again as we moved over towards Buckingham Palace. 

Holy moly!  Look at the hundreds of people packed in and lining the sidewalks!  They must have been standing there for hours and only now just got to see the guards arrive, meanwhile we had been up close with several sets of guards and bands for the last 2 hours.  I’d say we definitely had a better morning than these people did!  We could see the band and the guards marching towards the Palace, but Jess said it was far too crowded for our group to go in that direction.  Instead, we turned right near the gardens around the traffic circle.

Once we found a spot along the path in the garden, we could not see the guards anymore, but we did have a beautiful view of Buckingham Palace and the Victoria Memorial in the gardens.

We both thought this tour was worth every penny (…or should I say every pence!).  As we were promised by the tour description, Jess put us in the right spot at the right time to see several components to the changing of the guards ceremony, and we avoided the large crowds of people as much as possible.  When the tour ended, Jess said we could stick around and try to get a view of the changing of the guards in the courtyard in front of Buckingham Palace, but we decided not to tackle that chaos and that we had seen enough during the tour.

We had a little bit of time before our lunch reservations, so we walked back through St. James’s Park.  I just couldn’t get enough of these colorful flowers!

I noticed these silver plaques in the sidewalk so I Googled it.  These are placed along a 14-mile path connecting London’s iconic locations between Buckingham Palace and the Tower of London.  The path was created to celebrate the Queen’s 25th anniversary in 1977.

We walked over to Westminster Abbey to take a photo.  We did pass by here quickly during our tour on Friday, but we were across the street then and couldn’t get close so today we were able to spend a little more time examining the architecture and taking better photos.  We wouldn’t get to go inside so a quick view from the outside would have to suffice!

A few weeks before our trip, I made a reservation for lunch at the Sanctuary House.  The restaurant gets great reviews online, and was located near Westminster Abbey so we could go to the Evensong Service after lunch.  Of course, we now knew that we would not be attending that service, but we decided to keep our lunch reservations.  They offer a special Sunday Roast menu, in addition to their usual menu with lots of traditional British specialties. 

I loved the look of the exterior of the building.

We arrived at 12pm for our reservation and the restaurant was nearly empty.  The hostess took us over to a table for 4 next to the window in a quiet section towards the back of the restaurant.  We looked over the menu and considered getting the Sunday roasts but decided against it because we were not hungry enough for all of that food this early in the day.  Instead, we ordered the tasting board, which included 3 mini pies paired with 3 ales, and we ordered one extra steak pie so we could each have 2 pies. 

We planned to share the ales with DH drinking most of it, and I ordered a cider for myself.  The waiter offered to bring out the drinks first so we could get started on that, and he would bring out the pies when they were ready.  Sounds good to us!

A little while later, the waiter brought this to the table.  We looked at him a bit confused because surely he knew he had already brought out our ales.  He said he got mixed up but not to worry about it, so now we had more than enough to drink with our Sunday lunch!

All 3 of the mini pies were delicious, with a good ratio of filling to crust.  I also liked how they marked the top with a flower, a cow, and something else (I can’t remember what it was and it’s not clear in the photo) so we could identify the fillings.

The service was very good and we enjoyed our fancy lunch here, but we agreed that we would have liked it better for dinner when we had a bigger appetite.  We finished our meal by 12:45pm and decided to make our way towards the baseball game even though it was still very early.  It was going to take about an hour to get there, and the game didn’t start until 3pm, but we could spend some time walking around the stadium before the game started. 

We asked one of the agents working in the Underground station how to get to the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.  It turned out to be extremely easy!  We needed to take the Jubilee line to the Stratford Station, and the fare was included in the travel cards loaded on our Oyster Cards because it was within Zone 1 and 2.  I had assumed we’d need to pay extra for our ride out to the stadium so that was a nice surprise.  Once we got on the train, there were tons of other people wearing Yankees and Red Sox shirts so we knew we were in the right place, and we all followed each other when we arrived at the Stratford Station to get to the stadium. 

It was about a 10 minute walk from the station to the stadium, but it was obvious where to go because we could see the stadium out in the distance.  We arrived at 2pm so it was after the initial rush to enter and there was no wait to go through security.  There are no regulation baseball stadiums in London, so this game was being played at a soccer stadium built for the 2012 Olympics.

DH was super excited to be here as it is the first time an MLB series has been played in Europe!  For anyone interested in going, they are repeating the series in 2020 with the Chicago Cubs vs. St. Louis Cardinals.  We actually have good friends out here in the Bay Area who are big Cubs fans and are seriously considering flying out for that game next summer!

We entered the stadium and walked around checking out the vendors.  We had seen people wearing really cool shirts in London this morning that they bought at yesterday’s game, so DH wanted to buy one.  We found the official booth selling MLB London Series merchandise, but DH didn’t like any of those shirts.  We later found out that the shirts we saw in London were purchased from private vendors outside of the stadium, although we never saw those vendors when we entered or exited the stadium. 

When we got to our seats, they were starting some of the pre-game festivities out on the field.

They brought out giant flags to sing both the USA and the Great Britain national anthems.

Since the game was held at a soccer stadium, the field dimensions were very short compared to the standard MLB stadiums that these players are used to playing in.  Last night’s game turned into a homerun derby because the final score was 17 to 13 (Yankees won).  As you can imagine, that lead to an extremely long game.  The game lasted 4 hours and 42 minutes, making it only 3 minutes shorter than the longest 9-inning game in MLB History (in 2006, coincidentally also between the Yankees and Red Sox!).  Today’s game was a similar story, with a final score of 12 to 8 (Yankees won again), but luckily it only lasted for 4 hours and 24 minutes!  That was still a very long game, and we ended up leaving after the 7th inning so we’d have time for the rest of our plans for the day.  In the end, I’m glad we went to the game as it was a fun experience, even if it meant missing out on more quality time in Central London.

We took the Tube back to our hotel to get changed for the evening.  I must say that something I really missed about cruising was the logistics of getting ready for the evening.  It is so convenient to ride an elevator back to our deck and walk a few steps down the hall to our cabin to shower and get changed for dinner, as opposed to taking some form of public transit to travel across the city to get back to our hotel, and then needing to take more public transit to get to our evening activity.  Even with conveniently located hotels, it still always took a long time and really made me miss that aspect of cruising.

Once we were ready for the night, we took the Tube over to the Aldgate Station.  We had reservations for dinner at Mayfair Chippy at The City location because we had to stay on schedule and this place got good reviews on Trip Advisor so it was just easier to plan a reservation here as opposed to aimlessly wandering the streets looking for a good restaurant.  This restaurant was in the business district near lots of high-rise office buildings, so it was not surprising that most restaurants were closed on a Sunday night and the streets were somewhat deserted.  When we got to Mayfair Chippy, it was actually very crowded and nearly every table was occupied, so it’s a good thing we had a reservation!  We were seated immediately and it didn’t take long to look over the menu because we planned to order their specialty… fish and chips!  What else would you order at a chippy?  The food came out quickly and everything was crisp and tasty.

After dinner, we walked a few short blocks over to the Sky Garden for our evening activity.  On Thursday, we visited the Sky Garden from the reservations I made on their website 3 weeks in advance, but that kind of ticketing is only available during the day.  At night, the Sky Garden features a bar in the main open space called the Sky Pod Bar.  You can make reservations on their website starting 2 months in advance (way better than just 3 weeks in advance for the daytime slots!), and you can either request a table or just sign up for standing room around the bar.  There are also a few restaurants in there, but we were not interested in eating dinner there.  I made reservations for the bar for 9:15pm so we could watch the sunset and then see the nighttime skyline light up after dark. 

The Sky Pod Bar has a dress code at night and they do not permit flip flops or shorts, so we made sure to be dressed appropriately when we got changed at the hotel.  When we arrived at the hostess stand in the downstairs lobby, there was a group of people who were arguing with another hostess because she denied them entry because of what they were wearing.  I didn’t realize they would enforce the dress code so thoroughly, but those people were wearing shorts and flip flops so I guess it really did matter!

We went through the same thorough security check that we did on Thursday afternoon, then took the elevator up to the 35th floor to the Sky Garden.  We checked in again with the hostess at the Sky Pod Bar and she said we were free to walk around and order drinks at the bar, but we needed to leave after an hour and a half.  It also said that on our booking confirmation, and that wasn’t a problem because we didn’t plan to stay that long anyway.

I was drawn towards this gorgeous view of The Shard.  I tried to go outside on the balcony to take a better photo but the doors are locked at night and you need to stay inside the main Sky Garden complex.

We took a look at the menu at the bar and were surprised that the beer and cider prices were quite reasonable.  We each got a pint and took it to walk around and check out the views.  That’s why I didn’t want to book a table… I knew we’d want to wander around while we were here.

We timed our visit perfectly to watch the sunset.  The views from up here were so amazing!  It was hard to avoid the glare off the windows, but I did my best!

We stayed at the Sky Garden for about 45 minutes, then found our way back to the elevator to leave.  Back down on the street, we caught this view of The Shard peaking out down the alley.

Before heading back to the hotel, we decided to take a detour to see the Tower Bridge lit up at night.  We didn’t get to see it on Thursday night on the walking tour, and we were so close by so why not?  We walked down to the Thames in search of a walkway along the water.  On the way, we caught another great view of The Shard.

We could not figure out how to access the walking path because the gates near the Tower of London were locked, so we walked down along the Tower Pier to get as close as we could to the bridge.

I love that there was a red double-decker bus going across the middle of the bridge right as I took this photo!

Mission accomplished, we turned back to exit the pier and caught this view of The Shard and a neighboring building lit up for Pride month.  A beautiful end to another wonderful day in London!

Fitbit Daily Summary… Steps: 21,014,  Miles: 10.17,  Flights of Stairs: 24

Saturday, June 29, 2019 ~ Houses of Parliament, British Museum, Les Mis on the West End

One of the things we wanted to do the most during our time in London was to see a musical on the West End.  We are big fans of Broadway musicals and have had a season subscription to see the traveling Broadway shows at home for 5 years, so there was no question that we wanted to see a show while visiting London.  After we booked our flights in October, one of the first things we did was to look up which shows would be running in London on the dates we were there.  Ironically, a lot of the shows were ones that had come to San Jose last season or were due to come this season, so we didn’t have a lot of options.  We decided to buy tickets to Les Mis because we both love that show and hadn’t seen it in many years, plus we thought it would be a great show to feature the talented singers performing on a West End stage.  We bought tickets directly though the box office website for seats in the front row of the Upper Circle (the third floor balcony).  The reviews of these seats said there was a limited view and you had to lean forward to see the stage, but these were among the lowest priced seats in the theater so we decided to take our chances.  It is better to be in the front row and lean forward than be in the back row of the theater and have a tall person in front of you blocking the stage, or being so far back you need binoculars to see anything, right?  As luck would have it, in March we learned the list of shows coming to Broadway San Jose for the 2019-2020 season and sure enough… Les Mis is on the list!  So now we will be seeing it twice but at least it’s a show we both enjoy!

Another thing we wanted to do was take a tour of the Houses of Parliament.  I did some research on their website (www.parliament.uk) and learned that it only costs an extra £7 to take a 90-minute guided tour (£26.50) as opposed to the audio guide (£19.50), so it was a no-brainer that we would try to get tickets to the guided tour.  We always get so much more out of the tour when we have a live guide to interact with as opposed to trying to focus on the audio guide.  Visitors can take tours of the Houses on Parliament on Saturdays throughout the year, and on select weekdays when Parliament is not in session but those dates didn’t align with our trip so I knew Saturday was our only choice.  The tickets are released on their website about 5 months in advance, but luckily these are not in as high a demand as tickets to the Eiffel Tower and there were still lots of time slots available when I looked in early February.  We bought nonrefundable tickets for the 9am tour.

After another good breakfast at the hotel, we took the Tube to the Westminster Station.  Our tickets said to go straight to the Cromwell Green Visitor Entrance and that we needed to arrive 20 minutes before our tour to allow time to go through security.  I wasn’t really sure exactly where that entrance was located, but there were lots of signs along the sidewalk pointing us in the right direction.  Soon enough, we saw about 30 people standing in line, holding paper tickets that looked like ours, so we got in line.

While we waited, we admired the view of the back of Westminster Abbey.

I’m really not sure why they force you to arrive 20 minutes early for the 9am tour because the building did not open until 9am, so we were standing outside at 8:40am for no reason.  We would have appreciated the extra 20 minutes to sleep!  When they finally started letting us in, we showed our tickets, then proceeded through security.  Not surprisingly, this security check was very strict, even asking us to remove our watches.  After clearing security, they gave us passes to wear around our necks indicating that we were approved visitors, then they divided us into groups for the tour.  When the guide had about 30 people in their group, they took everyone and started the tour, and then a new guide would start to gather people for their tour.  As luck would have it, we ended up with only 16 people in our group because there was a lull in people finishing the security check. 

Our guide’s name was Gemma, and she explained that no photos were allowed during the tour except in the first 2 rooms, Westminster Hall and St. Stephen’s Hall. 

It was really hard to get a good photo in Westminster Hall due to the dim lighting and the vast size of the room, but I took a photo of the stained glass windows…

These doors lead into St. Stephen’s Hall.  The art installation was designed in 2016 to mark 150 years since the campaign for women’s votes began.

I know this isn’t the best quality photo but Gemma did not stop walking to give us a chance to take a photo so I had to click while walking.  This is St. Stephen’s Hall…

We weren’t allowed to take any photos beyond that point.  Gemma took us through some very grand lobbies and meeting halls, into the House of Lords and the House of Commons, and we got to see a bunch of rooms that are not accessible to people using the audio guides.  She did a wonderful job of explaining the ins and outs of British government, and she was able to answer all of our questions along the way.  We both thought this tour was well worth the cost of admission, and we learned a lot of tidbits that we hadn’t know about before.  There were a lot of tours happening simultaneously so sometimes it was timed well that as we finished in one room, another group entered when we were leaving, but sometimes there were multiple groups in the same room making it kind of loud and hard to hear Gemma.  We did notice that all of the other groups were much larger than ours, so we definitely got lucky to have a small group.  We started our tour at 9:15am and ended back at Westminster Hall at 10:50am, so it was a 95 minute tour.

On our way out, we were able to get one last photo in Westminster Hall…

I took a few photos outside in the garden in front of Westminster Hall.  These photos would look much better without the scaffolding, but I guess that’s just another reason to plan a re-do trip to London in the future!

When we exited out into Parliament Square, there were thousands of people in the streets!  It was crazy!  We asked one of the men standing on the street what was happening and he explained what the rally was for, but unfortunately I really can’t remember what he said.  Despite the number of people at the rally, it was all very peaceful and we never felt unsafe or anything like that (although we did guard our wallets in case of pickpockets!).

The statue of Winston Churchill was overlooking the crowd…

So, do you remember how hot it was when we were in Paris?  The high temperatures so far in London were in the mid-70’s so it had been warm but relatively pleasant… that is, until today!  Today’s high temperature was 87 degrees!  It was a brutally hot day for London standards and we needed an indoor activity to fill some time in the afternoon.  We decided to walk over to the British Museum in hopes that it was air conditioned.  We considered taking the Tube, but there was no direct line from Westminster to the British Museum, and it was only a mile and a half to walk there so we decided to take a leisurely walk and see some new parts of the city on the way. 

As we approached the Horse Guards Parade, there was a bit crowd outside so we crossed the street to see what was happening.

We couldn’t resist another touristy photo with one of the Guards.

Apparently our timing was perfect because they were about to start the changing of the guards ceremony!  We actually already had a tour booked to see this tomorrow morning, and we assumed that guide would explain everything that was happening, so today we just watched for a few minutes.

Out on the other side, there was a large crowd gathered so we stood behind them to see what we could over their heads.

It’s always fun when you come across something unexpected like that (although I suppose this ceremony happens on a schedule so we could have planned to be there intentionally haha).

Continuing on with our walk, we wandered up a side street to see this pub with a Sherlock Holmes theme.  It was a little too early in the day to grab a pint or we may have gone inside, but we just settled for a photo of the pretty exterior!

It was getting warmer and warmer by the minute, so we picked up a quick take away sandwich for lunch and walked the rest of the way to the British Museum.  When we arrived, we went through a security tent on the outside of the building, then continued up the front steps to enter the museum.

Just like I did for the Louvre, I made a map while we were still at home to locate some of the most significant works in the British Museum.  First up on that map was the Rosetta Stone, a stone slab inscribed in 196 BC with 3 languages used to decipher ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics.  Understandably, it was housed in a glass case, but that made it really hard to take a good photo of it.  There were probably 100 people crowded all around the case so we waited until some people left to get a little closer to look at the details of the inscriptions.

I have no idea what this says, but it’s incredible that you can still clearly see each character over 2200 years after it was etched.

We kept walking through a few smaller rooms until we got to a large open room at the far side of the museum to see the sculptures of the Parthenon.  It was kind of funny for me to see these items here in London because I have visited the Acropolis in Athens, but I certainly couldn’t get this close to the stone sculptures when they were mounted on the top of the Acropolis! 

Up next, we went towards the back of the museum to see Hoa Hakananai’a, better known as the Easter Island statue.  It is definitely on my bucket list to visit Easter Island and see these statues in person, but who knows if or when that will ever happen, so for now, I was excited to see this statue in the museum.

I never realized these statues have engravings on their backside too!

Next, we went upstairs to see a few other key things that I did not take photos of, and finally, the Mummy of Katebet.  This exhibit actually had several mummies on display, and there was an interesting explanation of the mummification process hanging on one of the walls.

Within seconds of entering the museum, it was obvious that we weren’t the only ones who wanted to stay cool with an indoor activity today.  It was very crowded and that made it hard to really enjoy our time here at a leisurely pace.  We found ourselves just wanting to quickly see each of the things on my list so we could get out of the museum and away from all the people!  We spent about an hour here, then decided we’d had enough and were ready to move on.  The British Museum is filled with hundreds of artifacts and fascinating pieces of history.  I loved that it wasn’t an art museum filled with endless walls of paintings, and I think it deserves more than an hour of our time so I look forward to visiting here again if I ever return to London.

Before we left, we caught a great view overlooking the Great Court…

We left the museum around 2pm and wow was it hot outside!  We were less than a mile from our hotel, so we started walking in that direction.  We had a few more hours before dinner but we were getting hungry, so we stopped into a Caffe Nero for our own version of afternoon tea.  They had amazingly cold air conditioning and comfy couches near the windows in the front so we plopped down to enjoy our snack and some people watching.

Eventually, we knew it was time to move along, so we walked the rest of the way back to our hotel to get changed for the evening.  Remember those unlimited ride passes we had for the City Cruises Thames River sightseeing boat?  Well they were due to expire at the end of the day today and we had only used them that one initial time.  We had plenty of time before our dinner reservations, so on a whim, we decided to go down to Tower Pier and ride the boat back in the opposite direction from how we did it last time.  We had to hustle a little bit, but we made it to Tower Pier just in time for the 3:15pm boat.  It was super hot outside and we were dressed nicely for our evening plans, so opted to sit inside on the lower level.  As I suspected on Thursday, it was basically impossible to take a good photo down here.  We sat on the starboard side of the boat, so any photos of the port side were obstructed by other people and the frame around the windows, and all the photos I tried to take out our windows had a glare.  I gave up on photos pretty quickly and we just enjoyed the ride as much as we could.  The commentary was exactly verbatim what we heard on Thursday, even though the speaker was a different person.  Oh well, at least it was free!

I was hoping there would be air conditioning downstairs, but no such luck.  The glass windows created a greenhouse effect, so it was very hot down there.  We tried using our USB-powered fans, but after about 15 minutes, they both overheated and stopped working!  I didn’t even think that was possible! Haha  Notice how you can see the 2 blades on my fan?  That’s because it was barely spinning at this point.

The boat docked at Westminster Pier around 4pm, and our dinner reservations were about a mile away at 5:15pm.  It was too early to go to dinner, so we kept our eyes open for a fun pub to get a quick drink.  Right around the corner from Westminster Pier, we found The Red Lion Pub.  That was easy!

This pub has a really interesting history, which was explained on this plaque next to the bar.

It was fairly busy here given it was a Saturday afternoon, but we saw a couple getting ready to leave so I waited for their table as DH got us a few drinks from the bar… no surprise that it was a cider for me and a beer for DH!  We really enjoyed the pub vibe throughout London.  It was usually very clean, the décor was charming, the staff was friendly, and they usually had a good selection on the taps.  Yet another reason that we loved London!

Back to the planning phase for a moment… When we bought our tickets for Les Mis, our confirmation instructed us to pick up the tickets at will call between 5:30pm and 7pm on the night of the show.  The show started at 7:30pm, so if we went at 5:30pm, that would make for a rushed dinner to get back to the theater in time to use the restrooms and get to our seats all the way upstairs.  Instead, we decided to go to dinner first and make sure to get to the theater before 7pm when the box office closed.  I wanted to find somewhere that took reservations so we wouldn’t need to worry about a long wait for a table, and I also wanted to find somewhere with a good pre-theater price fixe menu.  I looked on Open Table at all of the restaurants within walking distance of the Queens Theater, and we narrowed down the menus until we found the one we liked best.  That led us to Estiatorio Milos, a Greek restaurant that focused on imported Greek fish.  They offered a 2-course price fixe for £20 or 3-courses for £24, and all of the options looked really good.  We made our reservation for 5:15pm to give us an hour and a half to eat, and then 15 minutes to walk to the theater.

Milos was located in a beautiful stone building, right near the statue to the Duke of York.

We were seated immediately at a table along the windows at the front of the restaurant, conveniently located right next to an air conditioning vent!!  I was in heaven and I hadn’t even tasted a bite of food haha  The restaurant has a modern elegant atmosphere with floor to ceiling windows, white tablecloths and funky globe-shaped lighting fixtures.

This restaurant specializes in Greek fish, and they had this huge display in the back next to the kitchen with all sorts of fresh fish on ice.

I loved the look of this huge wine cellar on the lower level of the restaurant (I only found it because it was next to the restrooms haha)

We looked at the menu and did something we rarely do… we both ordered the exact same thing!

For our starters, we got the Poikilia, which was a sampler platter of several spreads including tzatziki, hummus, tarama (the consistency of hummus but made with fish roe instead of chick peas), and tyropitaki (similar to spanikopita), all served with fresh warm pita bread and raw vegetables to dip into the dips.

We weren’t expecting such a large portion size!  Had we known, we would have had one of us order the starter and main course and shared this starter, and the other would have ordered a main and a dessert to share.  Everything was delicious and we agreed it was a shame that we couldn’t take any of it home in a doggy bag because we couldn’t finish it all and still leave room for our main course.

For our main course, we both ordered the grilled lamb chops, served with Greek fried potatoes.

We were pleasantly impressed with Milos.  The service was excellent, the food was very tasty, the ambiance was classy, and the price was right! 

After dinner, we walked over to the Queens Theater to pick up our tickets. 

When we see the traveling Broadway shows in San Jose, they have signs just like this in the lobby for each show so we always take a photo with it.  It was fun to see a similar sign here in London and we knew we needed to take our usual photo!

It was a little annoying that we had to arrive at the theater by 7pm because they didn’t start letting people go up to their seats until 7:15pm.  When they did let us in, we went up to the third level to find our seats. 

I always enjoy when the stage exposes the pit below it and you can see the musicians, as a reminder that this is live music and not a pre-recording.

In those photos, you can see that there was a velvet padded arm rest along the top of the safety railing.  Yes, we did have to lean forward to see the stage, but at least it was soft and padded and relatively comfortable.  We actually could get away with leaning back in our seats when the actors were upstage, but we definitely had to lean forwards when they moved all the way downstage near the pit.  The leaning forward wasn’t as big a deal as I expected it to be, but unfortunately, the lighting rig that was mounted directly below our seats gave off A LOT of heat.  Perhaps, had we seen the show on a day that didn’t reach a high of 87 degrees, then we wouldn’t have noticed the heat from the lights.  We were not that lucky, and we could definitely feel the heat.  In fact, I could feel the difference between when the scene was darker and the lights were turned off versus when the lights were on.  I know the theater was due to be renovated a few weeks after we were there, so I hope they did something to change the location of that lighting rig!

Despite all of that, the show was phenomenal!  It was everything I wanted a musical on the West End to be, and more!  The actor who played Jean Valjean stole the show, but really everyone was excellent and the level of talent was quite impressive.  It was an experience we will never forget!

Fitbit Daily Summary… Steps: 22,898,  Miles: 9.8,  Flights of Stairs: 26

Friday, June 28, 2019 ~ London in a Day Walking Tour of the City of London to Westminster, then exploring Covent Garden/Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus

On my first day visiting a new city, I usually like to take some kind of tour to get an overview of where the main attractions are located and learn about of history about that city.  Since we arrived in London mid-day yesterday, I hadn’t planned any tours in case of unexpected delays.  As it turned out, we actually covered quite a lot of ground in the two-thirds of a day that we spent in London yesterday, but the original plan was to treat today as our first full day and therefore I wanted to book an overview tour.  I did a few searches online and as soon as I found the Strawberry Tours website, I knew my search was complete.  Strawberry Tours offers a free 6-hour walking tour covering pretty much all the main sites on the north side of the river.  I have seen free walking tours that last one, two, and even three hours, but SIX hours?!?  In my experience, that is completely unheard of!!  The website warned that we would cover around 10km (over 6 miles) in about 7 hours with a 1 hour lunch break in the middle.  That sounded a bit daunting, but when you broke it down it only came out to one mile per hour, so it wasn’t really all that much.  Here is the tour description from the Strawberry Tours website:

“If your stay in London is shorter than you’d like it to be, but you want to leave with the feeling that you have seen the most important sites of this magnificent old town, then our Free London in a Day Tour is definitely the tour for you.

We’ll get going at 9.30 in the morning from Tower Hill, and we’ll spend all morning exploring the City of London, the root of it all, Londinium, the place where the Romans settled two thousand years ago. It is here where trade, economic power, and the middle classes have thrived since the times of William the Conqueror nearly a thousand years ago. Walk through the oldest streets of London as you gaze up to some of its most modern buildings. Be amazed by St. Paul’s Cathedral, and hear about the man who built it and rebuilt all of London after the Great Fire of 1666. Learn about some of the most powerful corporations in history, such as The East India Company, in the place were capitalism was born.

At around 13.00 will stop for an optional traditional Pub Lunch, where you can chat further to the guide, and enjoy a fish and chips with a pint of good old ale.

After lunch will venture into the City of Westminster, the place where political power has been held for the last 700 years, and certainly the most eccentric and picturesque area in town. See Buckingham Palace, where the Queen resides, and St. James’ Palace, built by Henry the VIII for his second wife Anne Bolene. Hear all the Royal gossip and learn about the history of the most popular Royal Family in the world. Walk to the houses of Parliament and see where the real power is held as you take your picture in front of the Big Ben.”

They also offer just tours of just the City of London separately from Westminster, so we could pick one or the other and not commit a full day to this tour, but this just seemed like too good a deal to be true and we couldn’t resist the chance to see all of these things in one tour.  It was a bit of a gamble because if we had a bad tour guide, that would totally ruin the day, but we took our chances and signed up on their website.

On Friday morning, we woke up and got ready for the day, then went downstairs to the basement of the hotel for breakfast.  When we checked in yesterday, they asked us to pick what time we wanted to eat breakfast.  They had a few little cards with half-hour time slots from 7am until 9am, so we picked 8am for Friday morning.  Each day, we could pick up a different time card for tomorrow’s breakfast or we could just reuse the one from the day before if we wanted to go at the same time.  The breakfast room was very small with only 5 or 6 tables, so it made sense that they needed to regulate the flow of traffic so there would be enough seats for everyone and so the kitchen staff could keep up with the food orders.  We arrived at 7:52am, which turned out to be very lucky because the kitchen had already finished cooking breakfast for the people who arrived at 7:30am and we were the first to arrive and place our order for the next round.  They actually did run out of tables because some of the 7:30 people hadn’t left yet when all of the 8am people arrived, so it was good that we were a few minutes early and we learned to use that strategy every day! 

I knew that breakfast was included with the nightly price of our hotel, but all of the reviews indicated that we would get a typical English breakfast with bacon, eggs, beans, and a grilled tomato.  I did not anticipate having any options, so I was shocked when we arrived and had a full menu to choose from!

Sure, it wasn’t IHOP, but it was way more than I was expecting and we were thrilled!  I ordered the special sandwich with a side of scrambled eggs, and DH ordered fried eggs over medium.  While our food was cooking, we helped ourselves to the buffet of cold options.  I took a few slices of cheese to put on top of my eggs, and a single-serve container of nutella for my toast.  The food came out very quickly and everything was good.  It was a simple breakfast, but it was very filling and it was hard to complain when it was free and made to order!

After breakfast, we walked across the street to Kings Cross to take the Tube to the Tower Hill station. 

Our instructions said to meet near the Tower Hill Tram coffee stand right outside of the station at 9:30am.  I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to find this stand, but it was literally right there in front of us when we exited the station!  A few minutes after we got there, our guide showed up carrying a bright red umbrella with white dots on it, designed to look like a strawberry!   Our guide’s name was Carlton and he was energetic, theatrical, and entertaining all day long so we really lucked out with him as our guide.  There were only 14 of us taking the tour today, which was the perfect size for our group because it was big enough to have people asking questions and we could chat with them as we walked between the sites, but not so big that it was hard to keep track of everyone all day long.  Crazy enough, there was a family who lives in a town near us in California! 

We started the tour next to a section of the original stone wall that the Romans built around 200 AD to surround and protect London.  Pieces of this wall can be seen in various spots around the City of London, including right outside the exit to the Tower Hill Underground station! 

As we turned around to leave this area, we got a sneak peak at our next destination:  The Tower of London!

Carlton led us around the back of the Underground station and to a spot overlooking the Tower of London.  Since we did not have time to go inside of this very popular historical site, this was as close as we got to it with a view of the outer wall.

It was so neat to see this historic landmark right across the river from the ultra-modern round building, London’s City Hall.  Notice all of those people lined up on the right side of the photo?  It was now a little after 10am so it looked like it was shaping up to be a busy day here!

Carlton told us to take a seat on the steps while he gave us a thorough history lesson.  Given how long today’s tour was, it was great that he always looked out for places where we could sit down, although not always in the shade.

Out next stop was at a hidden gem that most people don’t know exists… Saint Dunstan in the East Church.  Behind this church is a garden that is walled off, keeping the noise of the city out and leaving a lush, green garden with benches to sit and relax.

The church itself is a beautiful old Gothic church, with white stone walls towering over the garden.

Carlton intended for us to stay here in the shade while he told us another bit of London’s history, but unfortunately the gardeners were making a lot of noise so we had to leave haha

As we continued west through the City of London, Carlton pointed out the Walkie Talkie building…

…and this neat view of the Shard peaking out at the end of the street (although it is actually located far away on the south bank)

Carlton led us around the corner to take a closer look at the outside of the Walkie Talkie building.  He told us an interesting story… When this building first opened, a man parked his Jaguar on a nearby side street.  When he returned 2 hours later, he found that parts of his car had melted causing major damage to his car.  It turns out that the sun had reflected off the concave window panels of the Walkie Talkie building in just the right ankle that it was directed straight down to the Jaguar and caused the car to melt!  The building had to be fitted with special shades on the outside of all the windows to change the angle that the sun reflected so this problem would not happen again.  Talk about an engineering fail!!  Standing in the plaza outside of the building, we could look up to see those sunshades clearly.

We walked through a few side streets to get to the Leadenhall Market.  Since it was still so early in the day, there weren’t many people around and we were able to take some photos of the beautiful building.

As we exited the Leadenhall Market, we had a direct view of the Cheese Grater building.  It’s so interesting to see these super modern highrise buildings contrasting with the old architecture of the market.

Carlton pointed out the St. Michael Cornhill Church which means it probably had some kind of historical significance, but I honestly can’t remember what he said haha

I kept seeing these posts around the City and I noticed that they had different dates at the bottom.  I asked Carlton what it meant and he said he wasn’t positive but he thought it was the date that post was repaired after it got knocked over or damaged.

The Bank of England, with a red double-decker bus driving by.  I really meant to ride on one of the buses (just to say I did it lol), but we never got a chance.

I just thought this was a pretty spot with the lamp post and the old building behind it…

Carlton explained the history of this pub, but as we walked around the corner, there was a plaque explaining the same story so I’ll just post a photo of it instead of re-explaining it hehe

Next, we stopped outside of St. Paul’s Cathedral where Carlton pointed out the irony that it is free to visit museums in London, but the famous churches (here and Westminster Abbey, for example) charge a surprisingly high admission fee!  Unfortunately, the sun was in a bad spot so it was hard to get a good photo while he was talking.  At least I got some cool photos when we passed here yesterday!

We walked past this store selling tons of Union Jack souvenirs.  Of course I didn’t have time to go inside during our tour, so this photo will have to serve as my keepsake instead.  In a way, it’s annoying that the building from across the street reflected in the window, but in a way, I kind of like the effect!

Our next stop was St. Bride’s Church.  Carlton explained that many brides in London take photos here before the wedding because the church spire looks like a wedding cake!  Our view of it was from an alley looking through the trees, but you get the idea…

While we were standing in the alley out of the way from the foot traffic on the sidewalk, Carlton took the opportunity to take our orders for lunch.  He called the restaurant where we were going and told them what we all wanted to eat from a set list of 5 items: fish and chips, burger and chips, sausage and mash, pesto penne pasta, or cottage pie (like shepherd’s pie but with no crust).  DH ordered the cottage pie and I ordered the fish and chips.  We still had about 30 minutes of walking before we would arrive at the lunch restaurant so now our food would be ready when we arrived.

We didn’t really make any more official stops before getting to lunch, but we did walk past the Royal Courts of Justice building so I snapped a quick photo of it.

I thought it was funny that they painted “Look Right —>” on the pavement to help people safely cross the street.  It seriously took me until our last day in London to get the hang of looking right first… you’d be surprised how hard it is to break a habit you’ve been practicing for nearly your entire life!

Carlton led us on the scenic route to get to the lunch restaurant.  Instead of walking on the Strand, which was a very busy street with lots of people crowding the sidewalks, we cut down to the river and walked along the north bank on a pedestrian path.  We didn’t know exactly where we were going for lunch nor how long it would take to walk there, so it was kind of surprising when it ended up being a 30 minute walk.  It would have been nice if Carlton either warned us that the walk would be 30 minutes straight, or if he found somewhere to stop at the midway point.  Since he didn’t do that, it felt like we were walking f-o-r-e-v-e-r!!  That wouldn’t have been a problem normally (you’ve seen the amount of walking we did every day on this trip, so 30 minutes is no big deal in the grand scheme of things), but nearly everyone in our group desperately needed to use a restroom by this point in the day and we all would have appreciated a potty break before doing all that walking!  We got to the restaurant at 12:30pm, so 3 hours after the tour started, and closer to 4 hours after we left our hotel this morning, so yea… you get the idea!

Lunch was at a pub called Walkers of Whitehall.

The restaurant was not very crowded, but the hostess was expecting us since we pre-ordered our food, and she led us downstairs to a private room with a booth large enough to fit our entire group at one table.  We had a family of 4 vegetarians on the tour with us, and they did not want to eat pasta for lunch (they said they eat A LOT of pasta as the default veggie dish haha), so Carlton told them where they could find some other options for good Indian food and they were going to meet us back at Walkers in an hour.  Another lady who was on the tour by herself decided she was going to leave right when we got to the pub.  It was actually kind of awkward because she told one of the other ladies while we were all in the restroom, and then she just left, so it became that lady’s obligation to tell Carlton.  We all thought it was very rude that she didn’t tell him she was leaving herself, likely to avoid having to give him a tip.

Anyway, that left us with 10 people at lunch including Carlton.  We sat down at our booth and they gave us this menu.  We had already ordered our food, so the waitress took our drink orders.  Strawberry Tours organized a deal for us where we get our choice of food and a half pint of beer/cider/soda/juice for £10. 

The food came out about 5 minutes later.  DH really enjoyed his cottage pie… it had a base of chopped beef with mashed potatoes on top, then a ton of gravy poured all over it, and of course a side of peas.  Those Brits are all about their peas!

My fish and chips was also very good, especially when I added some malt vinegar on top!

Carlton did not rush us at all to finish lunch, and even after we all finished eating, we enjoyed our time relaxing on the comfy booth and soaking up the air conditioning.  It was also a great opportunity to chat with the other people on our tour.  This was when DH learned that two of the other parties on our tour were specifically visiting London to attend the MLB London Series baseball game with the Yankees vs. Red Sox playing on Saturday night and Sunday afternoon.  He had noticed lots of people wearing Yankees and Red Sox shirts as we were walking around London yesterday and today, but he just assumed that it was other tourists visiting from the east coast (you can get to London in nearly the same time as you can get to California when coming from New York and Boston!)  Immediately, DH said he wanted to go to the game, but the others said the game sold out within minutes of tickets being released a few months ago.  DH was super bummed!

After lunch, we took a quick walk around the corner to see Trafalgar Square.  I thought it was a little weird that Carlton didn’t spend much time explaining the significance of this square considering it is so well known, but I think he wanted to avoid the area due to all the noise from the cars and other pedestrians.  He actually took out a portable microphone headset when we got here, and after using it for literally one minute, the batteries died!  He really was a great tour guide and we had a wonderful day with him, but I thought this was very unprofessional.  He knew he was leading this tour today and he knew that he liked using his headset when we walk through the more crowded parts of Westminster, so he should have known to charge his device last night.  Sorry… rant over!

Here is the glimpse we got of Nelson’s Column and Trafalgar Square as we walked around the corner towards The Mall.

How cute is this crosswalk sign!?  Carlton said this neighborhood is very LGBTQ friendly, and this was one tribute to that.  There was another sign that had the male and female symbols light up in green instead of the little walking man, but I couldn’t get a good photo of it.

We walked down along the Mall, which is the road that connects Trafalgar Square to Buckingham Palace.  Our next stop was to see this monument to the Duke of York.  There is a little chant that British children learn in school and Carlton was nice enough to sing it to us.  It’s actually a catchy little song…

The funny thing about this song is that it was very popular with tour guides throughout our time in London.  We actually heard the story of the Duke of York and listened to the song on 3 of our tours!  They say repetition is the key to learning new information, so maybe it wasn’t such a bad thing to hear this story and the song 3 times because I actually remember it now that the trip is over! Haha!

This monument was built in 1834 to honor the Duke of York.

This was the view I had all day, following Carlton and his red umbrella through the streets of London!  I told him how much I appreciated him carrying that umbrella all day long as it made it very easy to keep track of him when we got to more crowded areas.  There are moments in nearly every walking tour when I lose sight of my guide, so this eliminated that problem and we could always see the umbrella even on a busy sidewalk.

Notice how the road on The Mall is red… this is to create the effect of a very long red carpet leading up to Buckingham Palace.

The Prince Philip House is one of the more modern buildings on The Mall.

Next to that was a pair of statues of Queen Elizabeth and King George VI.  While we were standing in the shade, Carlton took a moment to explain how they play into the history of the British royalty and that they are the parents of the current queen, Queen Elizabeth II.  He also explained how Kings and Queens get their names, which I thought was really interesting because I never realized how it all works.

We took a detour onto a side street to see St. James’s Palace.  Look at all those fancy London taxicabs coming down the road!

St. James’s Palace was built in the 1530’s by King Henry VIII.  Carlton took this opportunity to explain what made King Henry VIII famous… all of his wives!  He explained the story behind each wife, and we learned the phrase people use to keep them straight: divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived.  I really learned a lot of British history on this tour, and Carlton had a great way of telling the story so that I would retain the information.

Heading out to The Mall, we walked all the way down to see Buckingham Palace.  We didn’t actually walk up to the gates because that would have involved crossing several lanes of traffic, but we had a good view of the palace and the gardens from where we stood.  Carlton was nice enough to give us a few minutes to take photos here.

Next, we crossed The Mall to enter St. James’s Park.  This is one of the 8 Royal Parks across London, and covers 58 acres including a lake with ducks, geese, and pelicans!  This park was so lush and green, and is a beautiful escape from the bustling city that surrounds it.

The London Eye peaked out above the trees in the distance…

If you look closely, you can see the pelicans hanging out on the rocks in the lake…

We exited St. James’s Park and walked past the House of Lords Appointments Commission.

Our next stop was to see Westminster Abbey.  This church has hosted 16 royal weddings, including when Prince William married Kate Middleton in 2011, and is the burial site of over 3,000 prominent British citizens.

The last stop on our epic full day walking tour was Parliament Square Garden.  I imagine this must be a great place to take photos of Big Ben, but we were out of luck with all that scaffolding in the way.

Overall, this tour was a fantastic way to get a huge overview of London.  We covered a ton of ground and Carlton was chock full of anecdotes and information about all of the sights we saw.  As wonderful as our tour was, I just looked back on their website and noticed that we did not visit all of the places they said we would see.  The places we missed were the Churchill War Rooms, Leicester Square, 10 Downing Street, and Tower Bridge.  We did get to see a bunch of places not mentioned on the website, but I’m not sure why we had to skip these other very notable locations.  We thanked Calrton for his time and tipped him generously before walking over to the Westminster Underground Station.  We wanted to go back to the hotel to get changed for tonight and grab some jackets because it was already cooling off and we didn’t want a repeat of yesterday!

After we finished at the hotel, we took a quick detour to check out the lobby of the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel.  We saw the grand facade every time we went to the train station, so we wanted to take a peak inside the hotel.  This hotel was originally built in the 1870’s by the railway company who was also building St. Pancras Station.  It was used as a hotel until 1935 when it was converted to offices for the railway, but then it was shut down in the 1980s after failing fire safety regulations.  In 2004, plans began to redevelop the historic building as a hotel, and the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel opened in 2011 as the building we can see today. 

Fun fact:  In 1996, the Spice Girls filmed their Wannabe music video in this building while it was still abandoned. 

I was on a mission to find the grand staircase featured in that music video, but wow does it ever look more majestic today after the restoration project!

Not the best photo because the light was shining in through the windows, but at least we can prove we were there hehe

We left the hotel through the front entrance and walked down the street to enter the St. Pancras train station. 

This bronze sculpture called “The Meeting Place” is featured inside the train station.

We hopped on the Tube to get to Covent Garden.  Our plan for tonight was to explore around this area and Leicester Square.  We asked Carlton for a recommendation of a good bar in this area and he suggested the Punch and Judy Pub because it over looks the courtyard outside Covent Garden where there are usually good street performers. 

We went inside and up the stairs to the bar area, but it was soooo crowded!  We could barely enter the room, let alone get to the bar or find a spot to stand on the balcony!  That was an unfortunate fail, so we went back downstairs to walk around Covent Garden.  At 6pm on a Friday evening, it’s no surprise that this place was packed with tourists and locals alike. 

We hadn’t eaten since lunch at the pub at 12:30pm, so I was getting hangry and didn’t have the patience for a place this hectic.  I ate half a Clif Bar to hold me over because we didn’t want to get dinner quite yet (I always keep one in my purse for hunger emergencies like this!), and we continued walking around and exploring the neighborhood.

We came across this colorful archway with rainbow lights, which I think was installed for Pride month.

We were close by one of the pubs I had bookmarked on my Google Map for places I wanted to see, so we took a detour to get a drink at The Cross Keys.  I just loved the décor outside of this pub!

There must have been over a hundred people hanging out in front of this pub, so we went inside to get a drink.  Funny enough, there was no one inside!  I guess the locals like to take advantage of the perfect summer weather when it’s not cold and rainy like the rest of the year!

I was happy to see that they had cider on tap, and DH really liked their beer selection.

After we finished our drinks, we walked around the corner and found this Pride Pop-Up Shop.  It turned out that this was the headquarters to coordinate the Pride parade which was scheduled for the following weekend.  We spent a few minutes chatting with the team of coordinators, but unfortunately, we were leaving London on Tuesday so we wouldn’t be there for the parade.

We walked around another corner and found Neals Yard, an amazingly colorful pedestrian alley that opened up into a small courtyard.  It was hard to take a good photo to capture everything because the space was so cramped, but this shows one of the corners.

By now, it was 7:30pm and we were ready to find somewhere to eat dinner.  We walked along one of the main streets that had lots of pubs and restaurants, looking for somewhere that looked lively and fun but that didn’t have a wait to get a table.

We decided to go to a pub called The Long Acre.  The décor was more modern than most of the other pubs we had been to, and it had a sports bar vibe.  They had a few big screen TVs and were airing the USA vs. France Women’s World Cup game, so it was pretty busy.  We couldn’t find any open tables on the main level, but there was a balcony upstairs that had an open table.  Unfortunately, we couldn’t really see the game from up there, but that was okay with us as long as we could sit and eat dinner.

Notice how everyone is looking towards us?  The TV mounted on the front of the balcony wall was showing the Women’s World Cup game.  The TV at the far side of the bar that we could see from our table was airing a random men’s soccer match that no one seemed to care about.

By now, I had ordered fish and chips at two restaurants but I had yet to try a steak and ale pie so that’s what I ordered.  I think DH ordered that too.

The food came out pretty quickly, and everything tasted good, but the portion was kind of small.  Luckily, we had a pint of cider and beer to help fill us up!

After dinner, we walked around Leicester Square and the surrounding area.  I couldn’t resist taking a photo of this Abbey Road display in the M&M World store!

We wandered over to Piccadilly Circus just as the buildings were lighting up at night.

Lots of people were hanging out around the statue of Eros.

It was getting late and we had had a long day, but we stepped into one last pub for a drink as we watched Team USA beat France to advance to the semi-final round of the Women’s World Cup.  We were kind of happy to be in England and not France tonight! haha

After the game ended, we got on the Tube to head back to our hotel after a wonderful day exploring London.

Fitbit Daily Summary… Steps: 25,031,  Miles: 11.52,  Flights of Stairs: 27